纱罗组织夏布历史发展、结构特征及织造技艺研究

Research on the Historical Development,Structural Features and Weaving Techniques of Leno Weave Grass Cloth

[研究意义]纱罗组织夏布是目前为数不多留存于世的有固定绞组的二绞经纱手工纱罗组织织物,其相邻两经纱一为绞经、一为地经相互绞扭交叉形成绞孔并与织入其中的平纹组织排列组合形成多种不同的纱罗组织夏布。[研究内容]为丰富夏布与手工纱罗组织织物研究,促进二者的传承与发展,本文以纱罗组织夏布为研究对象,对其历史发展、种类特征、织造机具、织造技艺进行研究。[研究结果与结论]研究发现当前所见纱罗组织夏布出现于二十世纪五十年代以前,有横罗组织、直罗组织、花罗组织三种,使用经普通夏布织造所用的传统卧式织机改造而成的织机,利用织机踩板、天平、罗棒、线综的联动作用规律产生绞转梭口、自然梭口、开放梭口,配合引纬打纬以完成织造。

The leno weave grass cloth is one of the few handmade leno weave fabrics with fixed twist groups that still exist in the world. Though there are a variety of patterns of leno weave grass cloth, its every two adjacent warp yarns could form a twisted group, while one is twisted warp, the other is ground warp. With a long history, leno weave grass cloth contains rich textile scientific and cultural knowledge, as it is the result of continuous exploration, accumulation, induction and innovation of our ancient. However, when it comes to traditional handmade leno weave fabrics, people may only be familiar with Hangzhou leno rather than the leno weave grass cloth. Recently, with the continuous reduction of market demand, the aging of traditional craftsmen, and the inheritance of younger generation this outstanding traditional skill that has not yet been known by people is facing a huge survival crisis.In order to clarify the historical development and technical characteristics of leno weave grass cloth, provide more information to those who want to do some deeper research on leno weave grass cloth and those who want to inherit and innovate it. Based on the materials collected by field research, this article takes leno weave grass cloth as the research object and analyzes its historical development, species characteristics and weaving skills with the combination of relevant literature.In addition, to clearly understand the leno weave grass cloth’s skill and easily grasp its core skills, some textile knowledge is introduced in the study of leno weave grass cloth’s fabric structure, looms function, and specific weaving techniques. Then we found that leno weave grass cloth has a history of more than 70 years. And now there are three types of leno weave grass cloth: horizontal leno weave grass cloth, straight leno weave grass cloth, and jacquard leno weave grass cloth. All of those leno weave grass cloth can be woven by a loom that is transformed from traditional plain weave grass cloth loom by repeating opening, weft insertion, and beating.There is no doubt that the leno weave grass cloth will change or even gradually decline with the development of our society.As a result, excavating its history and effectively recording its development, changes, characteristics and skills at this stage is a respect for national culture and ancestor’s wisdom. What is more, it also benefits to the enhance of national cultural self-confidence. Meanwhile, by doing it, we can provide materials for scholars to conduct relevant research and develop it through innovation.