摘要
[研究意义]哈雷.弗萨特大师绘制的《编年史》是15世纪末极具代表性的史诗题材插画手抄本。插画中丰富多样的动物主题织物图案不仅表现出极强的装饰性,同时还蕴藏着丰富的象征隐喻。[研究方法]文章以插画中的动物主题织物图案为切入点,借助叙事文本与历史语境对其中动物元素的隐喻所指进行分析,联系存世实物对比图案间的异同,多角度地对织物图案自身的艺术特色及其投射出的文化价值进行解读。[研究结果与结论]研究发现织物图案中的动物元素对于中世纪人来说具有超越其本身的文化意义。《编年史》插画中的动物主题织物图案在视觉图像、叙事文本以及历史现实层面呈现多维度的呼应关系,具有多样整体、以物征事、立足现实的艺术特色。
Froissart Chronicles drawn by Master of the Harley Froissart is an outstanding European medieval epic illustrated manuscript in the late 15th century.The illustrations in this well-preserved manusecript have attracted the attention of academic circles, but most of the research focuses on image narrative while very few research focuses on the textile patterns in the illustrations.This study focused on the animal-pattern textiles in illustrations, trying to explore the artistic features and animal metaphors of textiles that go beyond decoration.Textiles played an important role in late medieval visual culture.The author compiled a tabular summary of animal-pattern textiles in Froissart Chronicle manuscripts illustrations and divided them into two groups by animal species: birds-pattern &beasts-pattern.According to the statistics, birds motif appeared in different colors and combinations in 17 illustrations.Restricted by the size of the illustrations, the birds-pattern textiles are mostly silhouetted without too much detail.From the perspective of application scenarios, birds pattern textiles appear in daily-life scenes, political scenes, and religious scenes;In terms of color, the birds-pattern is mostly painted in yellow;In terms of composition, the birds patterns are mostly in staggered scatter layout with spread wings. This paper further explored the birds-pattern textile in the Gaston Ⅲ poisoning incident and Sister sermon illustrations, analyzed the iconographic and metaphoric meaning of the birds-pattern along with the text and background.Compared with the 14th century woven textile in the museum, we Ⅲfind the similarities and differences of the patterns between illustrations and brocade fragments.The beasts-pattern study followed the same research order:First, compare the different beasts-pattern textiles in the illustrations to find out the commonalities, and then interpret them in combination with specific illustration cases. Accroding to the study, the beasts motifs usually appear in combination with birds motifs in formal political scenes. It is worth mentioning that the beast motifs mostly appear in pairs.The beasts motifs are more diverse than birds motifs which can be divided into real beasts such as lions, leopards, stags, etc and mythological creatures such as Griffins, unicorns,Wyverns, etc.The author use Kneeling before Gaston Ⅲ,Treaty between France and England and King Richard II of England banishing the Earl Marshall and the Earl of Derby’s illustrations to unscramble the meaning of lions and stags motifs in pattern;using Bal Des Ardents and Charles VI receiving envoys from England’s illustrations to explore the signified of Perytons and Wyverns motifs.Illustrations in the manuscript as secondary creation of the text is not only undertaking the role of presenting content or confirming its meaning but also bringing the connection for narratives by using certain visual signs.Meanwhile, patterns as a representation of culture and history did not develop independently, which makes it important to discuss the artistic characteristics of textile patterns with the carrier attributes of illustrations along with the historical background. Through the interpretation of the illustration content, we understand the metaphor of birds and beasts in textile patterns and the inner logic of the illustrator when creating these patterns. The study shows that the textiles pattern in Froissart Chronicles has meaning and serves functions that go beyond mere decoration. The textile pattern showed multi-layered echo in visual imagery, narrative text and historical reality reflects the illustrator’s unique personal style and ingenious ideas, and patterns’ integral,symbolic and realistic artistic features.
作者
李坤航
刘瑜
LI Kunhang;LIU Yu(School of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第6期127-133,共7页
Fashion Guide
关键词
中世纪
《编年史》
插画手抄本
织物图案
动物隐喻
15世纪
medieval
Froissart Chronicles
manuscript illustrations
textile pattern
animal metaphors
15th century