论唐代女性胡服风尚的变化——兼论唐代女性意识与男装

On the Changes of the Fashion of Women′s Exotic Dressing and Also on Women Consciousness and Men′s Clothing in the Tang Dynasty

唐代盛行胡服及女着男装现象,是当时社会的独特风尚。初唐时期女性服饰胡风初露,盛唐时期胡服风格多样,安史之乱后胡服则遭到排斥,这一过程与唐代的社会发展、中外交往及民族融合密切相关。胡服与男装的盛行,能否体现唐代女性意识的觉醒及其社会地位的提高,仍值得商榷。但唐代女着胡服风尚的变化,无疑展现了唐代社会兼收并蓄的历史风貌和多元绚丽的文化图景。

The prevalence of exotic dressing(Hu Fu)and the phenomenon of women wearing men′s clothes in the Tang Dynasty seemed to be a unique social trend at that time.In the early Tang Dynasty,the exotic style of women′s costumes was first revealed.In the prosperous Tang Dynasty,there appeared diverse styles of exotic costumes.After the AN-SHI rebellion,the exotic costumes were excluded,which was closely related to the social development,Sino-foreign exchanges and national integration of the Tang Dynasty.Whether the prevalence of exotic dressing and men′s clothing could reflect the awakening of women consciousness and the improvement of their social status in the Tang Dynasty is still questionable.However,the changes in the fashion of women wearing exotic clothes in the Tang Dynasty undoubtedly showed the inclusive historical style and colorful cultural prospects of the Tang society.