元杂剧服饰与妆饰探析

A Probe into the Costume and Ornament of Zaju in the Yuan Dynasty

元杂剧服饰与妆饰在中国戏曲服饰与化妆史上占有重要的地位,但其却是学界关注较少且研究较为薄弱的部分。由于元代大量文人参与杂剧创作,以至于与元杂剧服饰与妆饰相关的文献资料较以往戏曲服饰与妆饰研究而言显著增多。同时元代墓葬出土杂剧服饰与妆饰考古资料进一步印证了剧本文献资料中相关服饰与妆饰的记载。本文采用二重证据法,通过文献资料与墓葬出土元杂剧服饰与妆饰考古资料相结合,比对分析研究,进而还原元杂剧服饰与妆饰的原貌。

The costumes and decorations of Yuan Zaju play an important role in the history of costumes and cosmetics of Chinese operas,but they are the part that the academia pays less attention to and the research is relatively weak.As a large number of literati participated in the creation of Zaju in the Yuan Dynasty,the literature related to the costumes and decorations o f Zaju in the Yuan Dynasty increased significantly compared with the previous studies on costumes and decorations of drama.At the same time,the archaeological materials on costumes and decorations of Zaju Opera unearthed in the tombs of the Yuan Dynasty further confirmed the records on costumes and decorations in the script literature.This paper adopts the double evidence method,through the combination of literature and archaeological costumes and decorations of Yuan Opera unearthed from tombs,comparative analysis and research,and then restores the appearance of costumes and decorations of Yuan Opera.