富川平地瑶织锦“挑花”工艺研究

Research on the“CrossStitch”Process of Fuchuan Pingdi Yao Brocade

针对目前瑶族织锦在工艺研究方面存在的不足,通过田野调查与文献研究相结合的方法,从工艺学的角度,对富川平地瑶织锦的织造流程与工艺特色进行全面梳理和分析,从中归纳出平地瑶织锦“挑花”工艺的挑织规律。研究表明:富川平地瑶织锦是一种正面织造,经线显花的经锦织物。它的“挑花”工序非常繁琐,需要在斜织机上采用竹扦挑起数根经线显花,其纬线全部包裹于经线中,正反两面图案用色相反。通常该技法由经验丰富的女工根据预设图案挑织而成,极富地方特色和民族手工特色。此项研究分析对助力平地瑶织锦工艺的传承与保护,具有一定的实践参考价值。

In view of the shortcomings in the research of Yao brocade weaving technology,we have conducted a comprehensive analysis of the weaving process and process characteristics of Fuchuan Pingdi Yao brocade from the perspective of technology through a combination of field investigation and literature research,and summarized the weaving pattern of the“cross-stitch”process of Pingdi Yao brocade.The research shows that Fuchuan Pingdi Yao brocade is a kind of warp brocade fabric with frontal weaving and warp threads showing flowers.The process of“cross-stitch”is very tedious and requires the use of bamboo skewers to pick up several warp threads on a slanting loom to show the flowers,with all the weft threads wrapped in the warp threads and the front and back patterns in opposite colors.Usually,this technique is made by experienced female workers according to the preset pattern,which is rich in local and national handicraft characteristics.This research and analysis has certain practical reference value for helping the inheritance and protection of the Pindi Yao brocade weaving technique.