从身体自我、皮肤自我到数字自我:元宇宙中的时尚之哲思

From Bodily Self,Skin Self to Digital Self:Some Reflections on the Fashion in Metaverse

对元宇宙中的时尚之反思,应基于时尚之哲思的发展演变背景,即从语言学向具身性转化。以罗兰·巴特为代表的语言学立场将时尚视作一个制度体系,进而将个体最终归结为被动的消费者。具身性研究则针锋相对地指出,身体可以作为重建主体性的转化之力,尤其是“皮肤自我”这个概念的提出,更是将皮肤这个内外沟通的中介与自我本身的表达和建构密切地连接在一起。进入数字和网络时代后,皮肤也日益趋向透明而光滑的数字化,由此,不仅使时尚与技术更为紧密地勾连在一起,而且让数字自我更深地陷入数字治理的装置中。如何重返身体之脆弱性,进而以差异性的时间维度抵御元宇宙的加速浪潮,哥特风似乎是一个可能的备选方案。

The reflection on fashion in the metaverse should also be based on the background of the development and evolution of fashion philosophy,that is,the transformation from linguistics to embodiment.The linguistic standpoint represented by Barthes regards fashion as an institutional system,and then ultimately reduces individuals to passive consumers.In contrast,the research on embodiment points out that the body can be a transforming force in the reconstruction of subjectivity.In particular,the concept of skin self is put forward,which connects skin as a medium of internal and external communication with the expression and construction of self.But in the digital and Internet age,skin is becoming increasingly transparent and smooth digitally,which not only brings fashion and technology closer together,but also enmeshes the digital self more deeply into the apparatus of digital governance.How to return to the fragility of the body and resist the accelerating tide of the metaverse with a different time dimension?The Gothic seems to be a possible alternative.