2022年国际攀联规则修订对我国竞技攀岩训练的影响

Enlightenment of the 2022 Revision of IFSC Rules on Competitive Climbing Training in China

2022年3月国际攀联颁布了新规则,通过和旧规则进行对比分析,剖析规则变化原因及对我国竞技攀岩训练的影响,为我国备战巴黎奥运会和促进竞技攀岩项目的发展提供相关借鉴和参考。结果表明:(1)规则的变化是竞技攀岩历史发展的基本规律、比赛发展的必要条件和未来发展的内在要求,新规则符合竞技攀岩发展趋势,更加合理、规范、细致。(2)近年来,我国竞技攀岩取得了较大进步,但与国际上的攀岩强国还存在一定的差距。(3)新规则对总则及各项目规则都进行了修订或补充,比赛模式方面的变化较大,两项全能赛中攀石及其难度的计分方法更加详细,对运动员的竞技水平提出了更高的要求。建议:在备战巴黎奥运会及其他重大比赛中,我国竞技攀岩队伍应保持速度项目优势,着重两项全能(Boulder&Lead)训练,加强国际交流和对国际竞赛规则的理解,提升运动员大赛经验和国际化线路攀爬能力,加大专业人才培养力度,提高攀岩项目定线执裁水平。

In March 2022, the International Federation of Sport Climbing issued new rules. Through comparative analysis with the old rules, this paper analyzed the reasons for changes in the rules and their impact on China’s competitive rock climbing training, providing relevant reference for China’s preparation for the Paris Olympic Games and promoting the development of competitive rock climbing events. The results show that:(a) The change of rules is the basic law of the historical development of competitive rock climbing, the necessary condition for the development of competitions and the internal requirements for the future development. The new rules are in line with the development trend of competitive rock climbing, and more reasonable, standardized and detailed.(b) In recent years, China has made great progress in competitive rock climbing, but there is still a gap between China and the international rock climbing powers.(c) The new version has revised or supplemented the general rules and the rules of each event. The competition mode has changed greatly. The scoring method of rock climbing and its difficulty in the Boulder&Lead is more detailed, which puts forward higher requirements for the athletes’ competitive level. Suggestions: In preparation for the Paris Olympic Games and other major competitions, our competitive climbing teams should maintain the advantage of speed events, focus on the training of the Boulder&Lead, strengthen international exchanges and understanding of international competition rules, improve the experience of athletes in competitions and the ability to climb international routes, increase the training of professional talents, and improve the level of line setting and judging of climbing projects.