困境与机遇:行业媒体发展碰撞下的时尚批评

Dilemma and Opportunity:Fashion Criticism under the Development of Fashion Media

时尚批评的出现可追溯至19世纪中叶,随着纺织业和成衣业的变革,受到早期现代美学评价概念影响而逐渐发展,被适配应用于时尚报道,随后应用于时尚媒体、新闻业,逐渐形成了整体流派。时至今日,时尚批评以时尚媒体为主流平台,以信息为中心载体,为当代社会传递时尚咨询、时尚意识及时尚领域对社会文化等问题的思考,用多样化的方式表达评论者对社会和时尚体系的看法。近年来,关于时尚批评的研究和实践逐渐发展,成为社会科学、文化研究、尤其是时尚研究的重要组成部分。但在学术领域,时尚批评作为一种观念性的时尚,还未建立起可与艺术或文学系统相媲美的成熟批评体系。本文聚焦于时尚媒体对时尚批评发展的历史线索和文化条件,同时关注媒体多元化时代下,时尚媒体如何影响时尚批评的发展,带来了怎样的困境,进而在时尚批评的研究现状梳理中预见未来的发展机遇。

The emergence of fashion criticism can be traced back to the mid-19th century,with the revolutions in the textile and ready-to-wear industries,developed under the influence of the early modern aesthetic evaluation system,and was adapted to fashion reporting,then applied to fashion media and journalism,gradually forming a whole genre.Nowadays,fashion criticism uses fashion media as mainstream platform,and uses information as central vehicle,to convey fashion advice,fashion consciousness and thoughts on social and cultural issues in the field of fashion,and to express the commentators'social views on fashion system in diverse ways.In recent years,research and practice on fashion criticism have gradually developed and become an important part of social sciences,cultural studies,and particularly fashion studies.However,in the academic field,fashion criticism,as a new kind of conceptual fashion form,has not yet established a mature critical system comparable to art or literary criticism systems.This article focuses on the historical clues and cultural conditions of fashion media on the development of fashion criticism,and at the same time focuses on how fashion media affect the development of fashion criticism in the era of media pluralism and what dilemmas it brings,and then foresees future development opportunities in the combing of the current situation of fashion criticism research.