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头发与头皮护理的科学基础(Ⅰ)——水分对头发性能的影响以及头发保湿锁水功效的研究

Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care(Ⅰ) Effects of moisture on the properties of hair and the study on moisturizing efficacy
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摘要 水分是头发的一个重要组成部分,水分子通过与角蛋白的作用以不同的赋存状态存在于头发内部。水分含量的多少及其存在形式会直接影响头发某些性能,而头发的损伤也会反过来影响头发内部水分。通过对头发水分含量、存在状态等方面的探究可以反映头发的健康/损伤状态。本文介绍了头发内部水分含量及赋存状态的表征方法,阐述了头发吸水/失水曲线的含义,分析了头发水分含量及流失速率与头发性质的关系并列举分析了市面上几种头发保湿剂及其保湿原理,以期对护发产品中保湿成分的开发和应用提供借鉴。 Moisture is important for hair.Water molecules exist in the hair in different states through the interactions with keratin.The water content and its existing form will directly affect some properties of hair,and the damage of the hair will also affect the internal moisture of the hair.The health/damage status of the hair can be reflected by exploring the moisture content of hair and the existing status.Herein,the characterization methods of hair internal moisture content and storage state were reviewed.The meaning of hair water absorption/loss curve was elucidated.The relationships between hair moisture content and loss rate and hair properties were analyzed.Several kinds of hair moisturizers and their moisturizing mechanisms were introduced.This review may provide basis for the development and application of moisturizing ingredients in hair care products.
作者 吴雨闻 马铃 陈殿松 常宽 王靖 Yuwen Wu;Ling Ma;Timson Chen;Kuan Chang;Jing Wang(School of Chemical&Material Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Adolfo Research and Innovation Laboratory,Guangzhou Degu Personal Care Products Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 518109,China)
出处 《日用化学工业(中英文)》 CAS 北大核心 2023年第1期8-15,共8页 China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics
基金 江苏省双创博士计划资助项目(JSSCBS20210816)。
关键词 头发 含水量 吸附脱附 力学性能 保湿 hair moisture content adsorption and desorption mechanical properties moisturizing
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