摘要
通过筛选合适的酸催化剂以及酸含量、水解温度和水解时间,制备了一种富含高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物。采用细胞功效模型探究富含高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物体外功效作用的同时,结合人体功效评价试验来进一步验证其化妆品领域应用的功效表现。结果表明:优选DL-酒石酸作为酸催化剂,当酸含量为5%,水解温度为80℃,水解时间为2 h时,人参皂苷Rg3的转化效率最高,达到64.91 mg/g。高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物的细胞模型评价试验显示出其具有修护H_(2)O_(2)氧化应激损伤和抑制TNF-α分泌的作用。同时,结合人体功效评价试验结果来看,高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物具有较好的修护皮肤屏障、改善皮肤泛红的功效。
Innovatively,a ginseng extract enriched with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 was prepared by screening suitable acid catalysts as well as acid content,hydrolysis temperature and hydrolysis time.The repair of H2O2-induced cell damage experiment and the inflammatory factor TNF-αrelease detection experiment were used to verify the cellular efficacy of ginseng extract rich in high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3.The skin trans epidermal water loss detection and 3D heme concentration detection were used to explore its cosmetics efficacy.The results of process optimization show that DL-tartaric acid is preferred as the acid catalyst.When the acid content is 5%,the hydrolysis temperature is 80℃,and the hydrolysis time is 2 h,the conversion efficiency of ginsenoside Rg3 is the highest,reaching 64.91 mg/g.The results of the repair of H2O2-induced cell damage experiment and the detection of the secretion of inflammatory factor TNF-αshow that ginseng extract richen with high mass concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 at the dose of 6.25~100μg/mL has the effect of repairing H2O2-induced cell damage and inhibiting the secretion of TNF-αwith a dose-dependent relationship.The results of the human efficacy evaluation test show that compared with the placebo group,the experiment group with 0.5%ginseng extract reduces the skin transdermal water loss rate and heme content by 16.39%and 6.14%,respectively.It means that the high concentration ginsenoside Rg3 ginseng extract has a certain cosmetic efficacy of skin barrier repair and skin redness relieving.In general,ginseng extract with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 can be used as a safe and effective skin care raw material in the field of cosmetics,and has a good application prospect.
作者
颜少慰
高畅
左丽娜
Shaowei Yan;Chang Gao;Lina Zuo(R&D,SYoung Cosmetics Manufacturing Co.,Ltd.,Changsha,Hunan 410000,China)
出处
《日用化学工业(中英文)》
CAS
北大核心
2023年第1期24-31,共8页
China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
人参皂苷RG3
制备工艺
多维细胞模型
化妆品
ginsenoside Rg3
preparation technology
multidimensional cell models
cosmetic