美学市场特征及审美计算——评乔安妮·恩特威斯尔的《时尚的美学经济:服装和模特业的市场和价值》

Aesthetic Market Characteristics and Aesthetic Calculation:On Joanne Entwistle’s The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion:Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling

作为英国的社会学及时尚研究学者,乔安妮·恩特威斯尔(Joanne Entwistle)在《时尚的美学经济:服装和模特业的市场和价值》一书中用社会学的研究方法(卡龙的网络、布迪厄的场域)来对美学市场进行研究,围绕着她在现实案例中的观察,通过研究模特、模特经纪人以及时尚买手的工作,对美学市场中模特、买手、空间等各种关系的作用过程与机制,以及场域、网络之间的实际交织进行深入分析,构建了一个理论框架来理解美学市场的特征以及其中的审美计算,填补了有关美学经济如何定义、发行和定价这一知识领域的空白,对我国时尚产业的创新发展路径研究也颇有启发。

As a sociologist and fashion research scholar in Britain, Joanne Entwistle used sociological research methods(Callon’s Actor-Network Theory, Bourdieu’s domain theory) to study the aesthetic market in her book The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling. Centering on her observation in real cases, she studied the work of models, model brokers, and fashion buyers, through in-depth analysis of the process and mechanism of various relationships in the aesthetic market, such as models, buyers, and spaces, as well as the actual interweaving between fields and networks, a theoretical framework has been constructed to understand the characteristics of the aesthetic market and the aesthetic calculation therein, filling the gap in the knowledge field of how to define, issue, and price the aesthetic economy, which is also enlightening to the research on the innovative development path of China’s fashion industry.