山本耀司及亚历山大·麦昆的解构主义风格对比

Comparison of the Deconstructionist Styles between Yohji Yamamoto and Alexander McQueen

20世纪80年代,一批新兴的解构主义设计师在国际时装秀上崭露头角,亚历山大·麦昆、山本耀司、马丁·马吉拉、三宅一生等都是解构主义服装领域的大师,他们颠覆了现代主义单调枯燥的设计风格,从材料选择,到解构构思,以及服装表面的处理都展现了解构主义离经叛道、不羁的设计风格。文章分析解构主义思潮下,亚历山大·麦昆、山本耀司的设计作品在服装设计上的不同呈现,并进行对比,以探索解构主义风格的不同设计表达。

In 1980s,a group of emerging deconstructionist designers appeared on international fashion shows.Alexander Mc Queen,Yohji Yamamoto,Martin Margiela and Issey Miyake are all masters in the field of deconstructionist clothing,who have subverted the monotonous and flat style of modern design and showed the unruly style of deconstructionism through material selection,deconstruction conception and the treatment of clothing surface.This paper analyzed and compared the different presentations of Alexander Mc Queen and Yohji Yamamoto’s design works in clothing design under the trend of deconstructionism,in order to explore the different design expressions of deconstructionist style.