扫描人体外包围计算与上衣原型应用分析

Scanning human body outer circumference calculation and upper prototype application analysis

为了得到科学合理的女装紧身上衣的松量分布规律,文章以449名女性人体模型的体型数据为依据,提出一种基于三维人体模型提取并测量胸围上外包围的方法。以胸围上外包围曲线上各特征点为导向点,将提取的腰围凸包曲线和胸围凸包曲线划分为12段并计算各段围度差,得到各体型紧身原型围度松量分布规律,并通过回归分析得到胸围上外包围、原型胸围松量与胸围的回归关系。基于腰围松量分布规律定义了各腰省的省量计算方式,统计分析出紧身原型、不同衣身构成腰省省量分布及各省量与总腰围松量的回归关系。

Clothing ease,which refers to the amount of the space between clothing and human body,is one of the most important factors affecting the comfort and compatibility of clothing.Studying the distribution law of garment ease is not only an important way to improve the rationality of clothing structure design and clothing comfort,but also a key technology to realize intelligent pattern making.In the tops’structure,the waist shape affects the fitness and comfort of the tight top.Furthermore,the waist and abdomen morphology has large differences in different body shapes,so the reasonable allocation of dart quantity based on body shape can improve the clothing fitness.Traditional top ease studies are based on the girth of the body surface bust line or the minimum circumference of the upper body.However,there is a gap between the human body surface size and the manual measurement size.For the body with anterior waist,using the minimum outer circumference of the upper body may cause excessive bust ease.In order to obtain the scientific and reasonable ease distribution rules of women’s tight tops,a method to extract and measure the outer circumference of the upper body above chest was proposed.Based on the data of 449 female mannequins,the point set of the grid models of the human trunk between the panel passing BNP(back neck point)and bust panel was firstly extracted(human shoulder points and arm protrusion were not included).Based on the above,the convex hull of the point set was calculated by Graham scanning to obtain the outer circumference curve of the upper body above chest.Secondly,the body surface bust line and waist line were extracted,and the convex hull of each profile curve was calculated to obtain bust section curve and waist section curve.According to national standard,the body types of 449 samples were divided into four categories:Y,A,B and C by chest and waist difference.The mean of point coordinates on bust section curve,waist section curve and the outer circumference curve of the upper body above chest of each scanning body were calculated,and the average bust section curve,waist section curve and the outer circumference curve of the upper body above chest were plotted.Then,taking the characteristic points on the outer circumference curve above chest as the guiding points,the extracted waist convex hull curve and chest convex hull curve were divided into 12 sections and the length of each section was measured.Based on the above,the circumference difference of each section was calculated to obtain the distribution rules of the prototype of each body shape.The regression relationships between the outer circumference of the upper body above chest,the chest circumference ease and the chest circumference were obtained through regression analysis.Based on the waist circumference ease distribution rules,the calculation method of each waist dart was defined.Then the regression relationships between the dart distribution of different garment constructions and each dart and the total waist circumference ease were analyzed.It is found that people with Y body type or A body type have a flat and relatively slender waist while people with B body type and C body type have a relatively rounded waist with front protrusion.There are significant differences among between distributions of chest circumference ease of different body types.As the difference of chest and waist decreases,the total ease amount of the chest circumference and the ease of the front sheet tend to increase.There is a positive correlation between the chest circumference and the outer circumference above chest of each body type while there is a negative correlation between the chest circumference and the chest circumference ease amount of each body type.There are significant differences among distributions of waist circumference ease of different body types.There are significant differences among the proportions of a,b,c,d,and e dart of different body types.There is a positive correlation between each waist ease quantity and the waist circumference ease amount.In the tight prototype waist dart distribution model,dart a accounts for 16.67%,b for 12.66%,c for 17.45%,d for 27.24%,e for 20.58%,and f for 5.44%.In the waist dart distribution model of three-sided garments,dart a accounts for 16.67%,b for 18.26%,c for 54.58%and d for 10.88%.In the waist dart distribution model of four-sided garments,dart a accounts for 24.01%,b for 34.91%,c for 35.67%and d for 5.44%.The research method is also applicable to the ease study of other parts.The research results can provide data reference for clothing structure design,and also provide an idea for intelligent plate making.In future research,the multiple factors affecting each waist dart amount can be deeply analyzed,and the multiple regression analysis can be established to improve the accuracy of each dart amount.