南宋女装的多层次模块化解构与计算机设计

Multi-layer modular deconstruction and computer implementation of women’s clothing in the Southern Song Dynasty

随着文化自信的不断提升,历史服装的定制市场逐步扩大,对高效率、严形制、可视化的历史服装设计方法需求也日益增强。模块化设计作为服装大规模定制背景下保障服装多样性与标准性的有效手段,文章用模块化设计的方法对南宋时期女性多层次服装结构设计进行研究。基于南宋墓出土数据,对南宋女性日常穿着服装各部位数据两两之间的相关性进行了分析,并选取了其中相关性较高的几组数据计算线性回归方程。同时以身高为变量,以臂展、膝上体长等数据为基线,探讨不同服装衣身长度、袖通长、裤长等数据取值范围及搭配关系,以达到计算机自动生成服装部件的数据尺寸限制。再运用模块化手段,将南宋女性穿着的多层服装分为固定模块和可选模块,同时运用数学思维,对模块的变形和配置进行了分析,最终实现多层次南宋女装的模块化整合,提高了服装定制设计效率,使非专业用户自行设计正确形制的成套服装成为可能。不仅拓宽了模块化设计思维的应用领域,同时也为历史服装智能化结构设计提供了一定理论依据。

With the development of science and technology,the virtual display technology of clothing can realize the whole process of clothing pattern making,sewing and display,effectively shortening the cycle of clothing design and product development.At the same time,the improvement of cultural self-confidence makes traditional costumes widely concerned,and more and more people focus on China’s traditional costumes and explore the beauty of traditional costumes.However,the fast-paced life limits the spread of complete and systematic costume culture,and in the daily wear of film and television dramas and historical costumes,there are some problems of confusion and omission of different dynasties’clothing styles and matches.Clothing modularity as a method of deconstructing clothing using mathematical thinking can effectively improve the efficiency of clothing customization,but the previous studies mostly focus on a piece or a suit of clothing,such as dresses,cheongsams,and baby jumpsuits,and there are fewstudies on the modularization of historical clothing and the division of multi-layered matching clothing.In order to achieve a more convenient recommendation for Song clothing and meet customization needs,the modular idea is combined with contemporary computer virtual reality to realize the multi-layer modular design of women’s clothing in the Southern Song Dynasty,and the simulation application of clothing modular design is carried out.Based on the unearthed data of the Southern Song Dynasty tombs,we analyze the correlation of the data of various parts of the clothing worn by women in the Southern Song Dynasty and the anastomosis state of the clothing and the human body,and select two sets of data with great correlation in the data of different parts to calculate their linear regression equations,which provides a basis for computer matching with clothing part data.Subsequently,taking height as the variable,arm span and body length above the knee as the baseline,we discuss the value range and matching relationship about body length,sleeve length,trouser length,etc.of different clothing styles.On this basis,according to the analysis of the existence of different styles of clothing parts,the daily clothing of women in the Southern Song Dynasty is divided into fixed modules and optional modules that do not affect the usability of clothing,and it is coded and analyzed by the deformation treatment of modules.After that,the modular configuration and collocation of multi-layer clothing are divided into three processes:sub-modular configuration of clothing,sub-clothing configuration of modules,and clothing layer matching.In the process of sub-modular matching of clothing,the computer thinking and structured way are used,and the colors,forms,patterns and other attributes of a single module are divided by code.In the process of sub-clothing configuration of modules,the module coding is matched to different clothing styles,and binary decision variables are used to express the configuration situation of the module.In the process of clothing layer matching,the mathematical thinking is used to analyze the matching process between the clothing layers.Finally,the process of simulating the application of clothing modular design such as component module configuration,module combination and layer matching is demonstrated by assuming human body data and clothing matching styles.In this cross-application research,archaeology,costume culture,and computer science are used,and the modular deconstruction of multi-layer historical clothing and its computer science implementation path are studied.In this paper,the daily wear of women in the Southern Song Dynasty is divided into modules with fixed modules and optional modules,and the modules are configured and combined using data set structure,which realizes the modular design of multi-layer women’s clothing in the Southern Song Dynasty and the display of the simulation application of clothing modular design.As limited women clothing data samples of the Southern Song Dynasty are unearthed,the linear regression equation needs to be further improved,and the establishment of module databases such as patterns and colors needs to be further collected and sorted.Through structured encoding of numbers,the article provides a theoretical basis for the data structure and design for the intelligent customization of suits of the Southern Song Dynasty clothing,realizes the modular integration of multi-layer women’s clothing in the Southern Song Dynasty,broadens the application field of modular design thinking.Such research can provide a certain theoretical basis for the intelligent structural design of historical clothing.