珠江口的疍家妇女日常服饰研究

A study of Danjia women’s clothing in the Zhujiang River Estuary

以珠江口的疍家妇女日常服饰为研究对象,文章针对其服饰特征与广府服饰之间的紧密关联,通过把实物、图像与文献等资料运用归纳对比的分析法,对其款式、色彩、纹样、面料、配饰等艺术特征进行梳理,并与广府陆上女性居民的服饰进行对比,发现珠江口疍家妇女的日常服饰在本土环境和劳动需求的推动下延续发展了广府的传统服饰,并且形成了独立的广府民系服饰体系。研究表明:珠江口的疍家妇女日常服饰呈现了以实用舒适、简洁素丽为美的艺术特征,并展现了广府服饰的场景化与多元化。

Canton clothing carries the vitality of Lingnan culture.The Danjia women’s daily clothing is a significant component of Canton clothing and it is distinct from both clothing in Central Plains and other Canton clothing for its distinct characteristics.At present,no systematic sorting or analysis has been conducted by scholars researching Danjia women’s daily clothing.Thus,an in-depth study of the Danjia women’s daily clothing will help us break the inherent concept of the Danjia women,so as to help us further appreciate the Cantonese culture.The author takes the daily clothing of Danjia women as the research object.First of all,The author illustrates the research background of the Danjia women’s daily clothing.Then,based on the relics,old photos,paintings and the corresponding literature,the author sorts out the artistic characteristics of the Danjia women’s daily clothing such as styles,colors,patterns,fabric and accessories.Finally,the author compares the Danjia women’s daily clothing with clothing of the onshore residents,deducing the relationship between them.Research shows that:(i)The Danjia culture is deeply influenced by the Cantonese onshore culture and the Danjia women’s daily clothing is mainly composed of large Chinese style blouse and wide-leg trousers.(ii)The main colors of Danjia women’s daily clothing are dominated by venecian blue,black,brown and gray,supplemented by indigo blue,bright red,white and other colors.(iii)The decorative patterns of Danjia women’s clothing are geometric patterns composed of lines,supplemented by embroidery lines and color pearls,showing concise and orderly,exquisite and small,and geometric and rhythmic characteristics.(iv)Danjia people love cheap homespun garments best,followed by Dacheng blue cloth and Gambiered Canton gauze.(v)The Danjia women’s daily clothing consists of large Chinese style blouse,wide-leg trousers,bamboo hat,kerchief,belt,aprons,clogs and a small amount of jewelry.(vi)The Danjia women’s daily clothing form a new clothing system that is practical,comfortable,concise and beautiful,and show the scene and diversity of the Cantonese clothing.This author thoroughly exlores the characteristics of the Danjia women’s clothing in the Zhujiang River Estuary,and highlights the particularity of women’s clothing in the Zhujiang River and the relationship with Cantonese culture by comparing it with that of women on land in Canton.The research results help to discover the neglected aesthetic value of Danjia clothing,interpret the unique Cantonese clothing culture,and embody the inclusive and co-existing characteristics of Cantonese culture,so as to gain insights into the profound historical and humanistic customs of Canton.