近代女子足服观念的转变及原因

The transformations and reasons of the concept of women’s footwear in modern times

近代中国的社会变革与思想变革运动推动了女子足服的变革,女性选择足服、穿着足服的观念随之产生转变。文章采用对比论证结合史料文献的研究方法,比较古代和近代社会对于妇女缠足、天足的态度,以及女性社会行为等方面的变化,归纳近代女子足服观念转变方向,并探析其原因和影响。研究表明:在近代女子足服观念转变过程中,足服的形制、色彩、材质趋向多元化,实用性与舒适性增强,进而成为近代妇女整体服饰形象的重要部分。从缠足女子的弓鞋到天足女子足服的多样化,再到不同阶层女性的足服消费行为和穿着方式,从中折射出近代女性人格与形象的解放、国货制鞋业的壮大,其实质是近代社会的发展与进步。

The social change and ideological change movement in modern China promoted the reform of women’s footwear,and the concept of women’s choice of footwear and wearing them had changed,which was the innovation of the concept of women’s footwear.The transformation of traditional women to have an independent personality step by step was reflected from the bow shoes of women with bound feet to the diversification of footwear for women with natural feet,women from the humble era of small feet to fighting for equal status with men,and then to the consumption behavior and methods of women’s footwear of different classes.Thus,the process of changing the concept of women’s footwear was also deeply engraved with the evolutionary trajectory of modern civilized women.We adopt the research method of comparative demonstration combined with historical documents,compare the attitudes towards women’s foot binding,natural feet,women’s social space and women’s social behavior in ancient and modern societies,and summarize three directions for the transformation of the concept of women’s footwear in modern times including equality,fashion and hygiene.Furthermore,we explore the reasons and impact of the transformation.The following conclusions are drawn:(i)from the perspective of the spatial sequence of concept change,the concept of women’s footwear in Shanghai,Tianjin,Guangzhou and other open-minded cities was first innovated,which was accompanied by a series of new social behaviors,and soon the new concept and new behaviors spread to the surrounding urban and rural areas through the flow of people and goods;(ii)from the perspective of the impact of concept change,the shapes of women’s shoes were constantly changing,the colors were coordinated and broke the tradition before,and the materials were comfortable and hygienic,which reflected the domestic shoe industry;(iii)from the perspective of women’s life practice,women of different classes had different consumption behaviors and ways of footwear,but the standards of pursuing beauty and the goal of modernization were the same,which promoted the progress of new women’s lives.The research on the concept of modern women’s footwear is an important part of the new trend of clothing in modern times.From the perspective of modern women’s footwear reform,we closely combine social reform and ideological change movements,analyze the changes in women’s wearing and choosing shoes before and after they put their feet on,and reveal the scientific understanding of new women’s footwear.The spread and popularity of this concept have accelerated the modern people’s ability to accept new shoe styles and new clothing,and promoted the transformation and development of modern clothing.