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传统服饰纹样生成设计研究 被引量:5

Generation Design of Traditional Costume Pattern
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摘要 目的服饰是我国文化创新的主要领域,也是展示文化的主要途径。通过二维服饰传统纹样向三维实体首饰及穿戴产品的转化生成,突破以往服饰纹样在平面维度生成、衍生的局限性。方法基于边缘检测等图像学技术结合人工描摹,实现二维传统服饰纹样图像的抽象化提取;运用人工神经网络的机器学习算法与图形学算法,训练一个传统纹样轮廓线的自动生形模型,生成三维首饰形态,并由服饰纹样二维图像生成三维参数化肌理。结果以传统服饰吉祥纹样为例,形成纹样素材库,在此基础上,实现平面纹样提取、三维形体转化、三维肌理转化、肌理向形体映射的生成设计路径,通过应用软件系统的设计实践验证其可行性。结论建立传统服饰文化元素的现代服饰产品形态转化及个性化定制路径,解决传统文化与现代消费、现代产业之间的割裂问题,从现代增材制造工艺、材料、理念等方面促进服饰产业的结构优化与转变,为其注入新的力量,对民族服饰文化的保护和传承具有重要的价值和意义。 Costume is the main field of China’s culture innovation and the main way of showing culture.The work aims to break through the limitations of the generation and derivation of previous clothing patterns in plane dimensions through the transformation and generation of two-dimensional traditional clothing patterns into three-dimensional solid jewelry and products.Based on image technology such as edge detection and manual tracing,abstract extraction of two-dimensional traditional clothing pattern images was realized.ANN machine learning algorithm and computer graphics algorithm were used to train a traditional contour automatic shaper to generate three-dimensional jewelry shape to generate three-dimensional parametric texture from two-dimensional image of clothing patterns.Taking traditional auspicious patterns of clothing as an example,a pattern material library was formed.On this basis,the design path of plane pattern extraction,three-dimensional shape transformation,three-dimensional texture transformation,texture to mapping shape generation and design was realized.Its feasibility was verified through the practice of design application software system.Establishing the transformation and personalized customization path of modern clothing products with traditional clothing cultural elements,solving the separation between traditional culture and modern consumption and modern industry,promoting the structure optimization and transformation of the clothing industry from the aspects of modern additive manufacturing process,materials and concepts,and injecting new strength into it are of great value and significance to the protection and inheritance of national costume culture.
作者 张帆 苏艺 崔强 王涛 ZHANG Fan;SU Yi;CUI Qiang;WANG Tao(Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Tsinghua University,Beijing 100091,China)
出处 《包装工程》 CAS 北大核心 2023年第4期1-8,42,共9页 Packaging Engineering
基金 北京市教委科技面上项目(KM202110012002) 北京服装学院高层次人才项目(NHFZ20220078)。
关键词 生成设计 传统服饰纹样 神经网络 参数化设计 GRASSHOPPER design generation traditional costume pattern neural network parametric design Grasshopper
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