头发与头皮护理的科学基础(Ⅱ)——头发的谱学表征技术

Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care(Ⅱ)Spectroscopic techniques for hair characterization

当前发用品的开发与研究过程中,人们往往较多关注于光泽、梳理性、蓬松度、力学性能等表观性能的评价与检测上,而对表观性能背后头发在分子层面上的变化研究较少。随着现代光谱学技术的发展,红外光谱、拉曼光谱、X射线光电子能谱与X射线荧光光谱等已被广泛应用于头发的相关研究中,为头发内部成分差异、不同环境下的损伤情况以及护发新原料的作用机理提供了大量分子层面的解释和科学证据支持。基于此,本文介绍了常用于头发表征的光谱学技术,对样品制备、表征仪器、数据分析方法等内容进行了总结与梳理,阐述了头发内部不同区域的化学组成差异,列举了数个基于谱学表征证据分析头发性质与结构之间的关系的案例,以期为护发新原料、新产品的开发提供参考。

Most current research and development of hair care products have been focused on the evaluation of hair properties such as glossiness,combability,fluffiness,mechanical properties,etc.In contrast,the studies focused on the changes of hair at molecular level are few.With the development of modern spectroscopic techniques,infrared spectroscopy,Raman spectroscopy,X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy have been widely used in hair related research,providing molecular-level explanations and scientific evidence for the composition difference of hair,the hair damage under different conditions and the mechanism of new hair care materials.In this review,the spectroscopic techniques commonly used for hair study were summarized.The sample preparation,characterization instruments and data analysis methods were introduced.Several cases of analyzing the structure-property relationships of hair based on spectroscopic characterization were also listed,aiming to provide a reference for the development of new hair care products and raw materials.