中华民族共同体发展形成的鲜活见证:20世纪以来德昌傈僳族女性服饰流变研究

A Vivid Testimony of the Development and Formation of the Chinese National Community:Research on the Change of Dechang Lisu Women’s Apparel Since the 20th Century

德昌是四川省境内傈僳族人口最多的县,傈僳族女性服饰作为一种富有特色的民俗文化表征,20世纪以来,在服饰形制、装饰图案、装饰材料和色彩搭配等多方面产生了变化。本文以此流变为依据,探究该地区女性服饰的发展历程及影响因素,挖掘服饰流变背后所透射的民族文化价值,以期为傈僳族服饰相关的研究提供一定的借鉴与参考。

An ethnic dress code is an important symbol for an ethnic group.Findings show the development of ethnic apparel is always a combined result of both material and spirit which have been shaped by the unique natural,geographical,cultural,and historical environment of the ethnic group’s habitat.The changes over time in Lisu apparel can vividly and intuitively display the historical development and cultural characteristics of the Lisu people in different regions,and related studies could make vital contributions and add value to ethnological research.Dechang county has the largest population of Lisu people in Sichuan Province.The ethnic dress of Lisu women there,as a characteristic folk culture,has been changing in many aspects such as clothing forms,decorative patterns,decorative materials,and color combinations since the 20th century.Based on these changes,this paper explores the development process and influencing factors of women’s wear in this region,and explores the ethnic and cultural values behind the change of apparel,for the purpose of providing some references for research on Lisu outfits.As the county with the most concentrated and largest population of Lisu people in Sichuan,Dechang is also a central gathering place in southwestern China for ethnic minorities.Women’s wear there is mainly composed of clothing and accessories.Since the Republic of China,a lot of changes have taken place on the apparel,and most of those changes are related to the form of clothing,decorative patterns,decorative materials,and color combinations.In the past,traditional Lisu women’s apparel mainly included a top part and a skirt.The upper part of the body was covered with a short coat with a coiled collar,a side placket,flower sleeves,and a short coat.The lower part of the body was covered with a white hemp-pleated skirt,a red belt,and embroidered satchels.Local women used to have their long hair wrapped in blue cloth,and coiled on the top of their heads.Nowadays,though women’s clothing styles still follow the previous traditional combinations,there are also many experimentations with new materials,craftsmanship,color combinations,and decorative effects.For example,in the past a hat was made of cloth,bamboo,and other traditional materials;currently it could be made with modern fabrics such as sponge which is quite light in weight.Clothing is no longer limited to a fixed and single style,and it can be decorated and modified according to each’s unique body shape and preferences to better express women’s own aesthetic and spiritual pursuits.To conclude,through conducting field investigations,this paper collected and organizes the existing objects,images,and oral historical sources of the Lisu apparel in Dechang,and by using this data and information it analyzes the form features,decorative patterns,color features,and decorative materials of the ethnic dress with the help of different works of literature.This paper takes clothing as a medium to explore how the apparel of Lisu women in Dechang has been evolving over the past years,to explain why and how such evolutions have taken place,and to discuss the ethnic cultural value behind such changes of ethnic apparel,so some evidence could be provided for the research projects on enhancing the integration and thriving of Chinese ethnic groups and developing a sense of community for the Chinese nation.