江南水乡绣花鞋形制工艺及与其他地区绣花鞋的比较

Shapes and Crafts of Embroidered Shoes in Jiangnan Water Town and Its Comparison with Embroidered Shoes in Other Areas

以江南大学民间服饰传习馆所藏绣花鞋为研究对象,实地考察稻作文化影响下的江南水乡地区绣花鞋的形制、工艺、文化符号等特征,并从结构、功能等方面比较江南水乡、闽南惠安及贵州屯堡三地绣花鞋的异同。研究表明:江南水乡地区绣花鞋形制有“扳趾头”和“猪拱头”之分,其工艺精细,具有独特的地域性和标识性;江南水乡、闽南惠安、贵州屯堡三地传统绣花鞋的形制具有类似之处,但在各地不同社会环境中,绣花鞋的使用功能与穿着场合不同,并沿着各自的轨迹发展变化。至现代,传统绣花鞋的形制工艺随社会环境的变化而有所简化改良。

Based on the embroidered shoes collected by the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University and field research,the characteristics of embroidered shoes in Jiangnan water town were analyzed under the influence of rice culture,such as the shapes,crafts and cultural symbols.Similarities and differences of embroidered shoes were compared among Jiangnan water town,Hui'an in southern Fujian and Tunpu Guizhou in terms of structure and function.Studies show that,the embroidered shoe shapes in Jiangnan water town are divided into"toe head"and"pig arch head",and the crafts is exquisite,with unique regionality and identity.The shapes of traditional embroidered shoes from these three districts are similar,but in different social environments and different regions,the functions of embroidered shoes are different from the occasions where they are worn,and they develop and change along their respective trajectories.In modern times,traditional embroidered shoes'shapes have been simplified and improved with changes in the social environment.