基于CLO3D虚拟技术下莫高窟61窟回鹘夫人服饰结构分析

Analysis of the Costume Structure of the Uighur Lady in Cave 61 of Mogao Grottoes Based on CLO3D Virtual Technology

莫高窟壁画中回鹘夫人服饰图案为多元文化交融下的产物,对其服装结构的分析有助于当下对历史服装的创新设计和应用。文章采用比例法、文献查阅法、CLO3D虚拟试衣软件对历史壁画进行深入研究,建立三维人体模型和服装板型。从款式、色彩、面料、服装结构、人体数据及最终着装效果进行仿真复刻,并对复刻效果与史实对比分析并检验,最终采用真实面料进行实物制作。研究表明:回鹘夫人所穿交领长袍是通过胸部飘带固定胸前领子结构造型,腰部飘带固定衣身结构造型;通过比例法准确计算出回鹘夫人人体以及服装各部位数据,绘制出的交领长袍结构图呈现出十字型结构,将服装进行虚拟试衣模拟,对服装面料、色彩、纹样进行仿真,最终效果与壁画效果契合,为古代少数民族服装复刻以及历史服装数字化仿真数据库的研究做基础。

This article is about the reproduction of the costume of the Uighur Lady in a mural of the Mogao Grottoes.The Uighur were originally a minority in the north of China.During the Tang Dynasty,the Uighurs established a good relationship and maintained close contacts politically,economically and culturally with the Han Nationality Regime,which has made important contributions in the formation of a unified multi-ethnic state.In the context of political marriage,the Uighur Lady had a lofty status,even surpassing Cao Yijin’s original spouse.During her life in Dunhuang,the Uighur Lady played a vital role in the stability of the regime and the development of relations between Uighur and Tang Dynasty.Her costume,as a product of multicultural integration,shows multicultural exchange and integration at that time.Its pattern,evidently influenced by the decoration aesthetic of Han Nationality,shows the unique feature of Uighur clothing under a special ethnic history and cultural context.Dr.Xie Jing explained in her research that due to the marriage between the Cao regime and foreign regime at that time,the Uighur costume and the Han costume started to influence each other.The structure of the Uighur Lady’s costume reflected this phenomenon.However,previous studies of the Uighur Lady’s costume mostly focused on descriptive studies of its color,pattern and shape and there weren’t any accurate data of its structure.This paper aims to provide foundation for the digital restoration of ancient ethnic minority costume and historical clothing database.Traditional ethnic minority clothing is an important historical and cultural heritage in China,and an indispensable part of the traditional clothing system,which has great research value.Moreover,the analysis of their structure will help the current innovative design and application of historical clothing.The article used the"proportion method","Literature and reference methods"and"CLO3D virtual fitting"to conduct in-depth research on historical murals.In the research,the author explored new methods of historical costume restoration by establishing a virtual model of human body.Referencing garment structure and somatic data,the researcher carried out simulation restoration from style,color and fabric.And finally,the author made a test by comparing restoration effect and historical facts,and used actual fabrics for practical manufacture.Through the study,we may learn the information on the costumes of the Uighur nationality in this period,which is an important material for the study of the costumes of the Uighur nationality.Taken together,the findings of this study suggest that the cross-collar gown fixes the chest collar structure through a ribbon on the chest,and the garment body was fixed through the waist ribbon.The researcher accurately computed the somatic data of the Uighur Lady as well as the data of all parts of the garment.The structure charting of the cross-collared robe shows a cross shape.Due to its long history and fragile texture,Dunhuang murals generally suffer from fading,blurring and damage.Digitization and virtual display are the key technologies to realize the digitalization of ancient cultural relics.The paper takes the costumes of the Uighur Lady in Cave 61’s mural at the Mogao Grottoes as the research object,and explores new methods of clothing reproduction,focusing on the shape,structure and simulation reproduction of Uighur costumes,overcoming the shortage of historical data on ancient ethnic minority costume reproduction and references.The author accurately reproduced the Uighur Lady’s clothing with CAD digital plate-making technology,built a model with the CLO3D software technology,and finally made a sample garment.It provides reference for the current Uighur clothing research,as well as the innovative design and development of historical clothing.This article focused on the analysis of the Uighur Lady’s clothing structure.The deficiency is that the reproduction of details such as clothing colors and fabrics is not rigorous enough.The Uighur national costumes continue to improve in the process of learning the costume culture of other ethnic groups.The Dunhuang frescoes clearly show the development history of the Uighur costumes,providing us with a large amount of historical data for the study of the historical costumes of the Uighur minority,which is of great significance,not only for its artistic value but also for our research.