隋唐时期襦裙服饰艺术特征及成因探析

An Analysis of the Artistic Characteristics and Causes of the Jacket Dress in the Sui and Tang Dynasties

以隋唐时期的女子襦裙服饰为主要研究出发点,通过文献研究法、归纳对比法、图像研究等方法,对该时期女子襦裙服饰款式、色彩、纹样艺术特征进行归纳,从而针对性分析其艺术特征形成的原因。研究表明:①款式艺术特征——襦裙服装及配饰的款式配置完整度较高;襦裙服饰领口形状为主要的款式结构变化。成因——宗教信仰以及女性地位提高的内在因素影响;丝绸之路背景的外在因素影响。②色彩艺术特征——淡雅稳重冷色调,实现服饰色彩氛围感;明亮轻快暖色调,营造抽象丰富的审美情趣。成因——开通运河,水路交通成熟,加强南北交通、推动江南地区的经济建设,形成因地制宜的“硬实力”;江南地区色彩印染业与丝织业逐渐崭露头角,形成得天独厚的“软实力”。③纹样艺术特征——构图精密,组织严谨,结构线条相辅相成;写实多元化,抽象包容性,写实抽象和谐共存。成因——佛寺道观的纹样环境传播影响;中央官制,唐代设少府监和将作监,严格管理国家手工业作坊的服饰制度与生产,造就成熟全面的纹样纺织手工业。

Starting from the Sui unification of the Northern and Southern Dynasties,it existed for a relatively short period of time with dynastic changes,and then after the unification of the whole country in the Tang Dynasty,the territory covered a wider area with richer material industries,and more prosperous economy and culture.From the perspective of the economic,political and cultural development of the feudal society,the Sui and Tang dynasties were the peak of the economic,political and cultural development of ancient China,and the policy of opening up to the outside world,the superior material base and social environment,the advancement of textile industry and printing and dyeing technology,and the appreciation and tolerance of foreign dress culture and art created an unprecedented splendor of the jacket dress(Ruqun in Chinese)in terms of style,color or pattern.Therefore,in this paper,the artistic features of style,color and pattern are studied and their causes are explored separately.The results of the study show that:①Stylistic artistic features-the stylistic configuration of short-skirt clothing and accessories is more complete;the shape of the neckline of short-skirt clothing is the main structural change in style.Causes-the influence of religious beliefs and intrinsic factors of women’s improved status;the influence of extrinsic factors of the Silk Road background.②color art features-light and steady cold tones achieve a sense of color atmosphere in clothing;bright and light warm tones create an abstract and rich aesthetic interest.Causes-the opening of the canal and waterway traffic maturity strengthen the north-south traffic,promote the economic construction of the Jiangnan region and the formation of the local"hard power";Jiangnan color printing and dyeing industry and silk weaving industry gradually emerged forming a unique"soft power".③Artistic characteristics of patterns-precise composition,strict organization,complementary structure and lines;realistic diversity,abstract inclusiveness,realistic abstract harmonious coexistence.Causes-Influence of the pattern environment spreads from Buddhist temples and Taoist temples;central official system,the Tang Dynasty set up the Shaofu Supervisor and the General Works Supervisor to strictly manage the dress system and production of state handicraft workshops,creating a mature and comprehensive patterned textile handicraft industry.Through the analysis of the artistic characteristics of the jacket dress and its causes in the Sui and Tang dynasties,the author has gained a deeper understanding of the aesthetic characteristics of the jacket dress,and re-examined the Chinese traditional dress culture of more than 5,000 years,its profoundness and the social background,political economy,cultural technology,etc.And has provided some theoretical support and basis for the subsequent study of traditional dress culture.