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图像证史的信与疑——从《皇清职贡图》和《诸夷职贡图》的服饰比较研究出发 被引量:1

Faithfulness and Doubt of Image History——A Comparative Study of Clothing in Royal Tribute Picture Album of Qing Dynasty and Zhu Yi Picture Album
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摘要 《皇清职贡图》和仇英款《诸夷职贡图》虽然都属于职贡题材的画作,但其图中人物的服饰表征有着显著的差别,且学界未对这种差异产生的原因进行过专项研究。针对这一情况,文章通过图像研究、文献研究的方法,对两图中人物服饰的创作源流、造型特征、表现技法进行分析并得出结论。研究表明《皇清职贡图》属于纪实类职贡图,其人物及服饰源自于真实采写,有着较高的历史还原度,是探究清代历史文化的重要图像史料。而仇英款《诸夷职贡图》属于想象类职贡图,人物及服饰是根据前代同名作品再创作而成,作者在表现人物服饰的过程中对部分内容进行了夸张化处理,图中人物的服饰与其身份多不具备对应关系,不可直接作为研究史料。文章通过研究两幅作品的题跋结合创作背景、作者的生活经历认为,创作动机的差异是导致两类职贡图产生的根本原因,也是职贡图分类的一种依据。 Although Royal Tribute Picture Album of Qing Dynasty and Zhu Yi Picture Album made by Qiu Ying both belong to the scene of tribute,there are significant differences in their clothing representations,and the academic circles have not conducted any special research on the causes of such differences.In this situation,this paper analyzes the origin,modeling characteristics and performance techniques of the costumes of the characters in the two albums by means of image research and literature research,and draws a conclusion.The research shows that Royal Tribute Album Picture of Qing Dynasty belongs to the documentary tribute album,and its characters and costumes are from real collection and writing,with a high degree of historical restoration.It is an important image historical material to explore the history and culture of Qing Dynasty.However,Qiu Ying’s Zhu Yi Zhi Picture Album is an imaginary one.The characters and costumes are re-created based on the previous generation’s works of the same name.In the process of expressing the characters’costumes,the author exaggerated some of the contents.Most of the characters’costumes in the album do not correspond to their identities,so they cannot be directly used as research historical materials.By studying the inscriptions and postscript of the two works,combined with the creative background and the author’s life experience,the author believes that the difference of creative motivation is the fundamental reason for the two types of tribute pictures.
作者 李万军 周全 徐英英 LI Wanjun;ZHOU Quan;XU Yingying(Birmingham Institute of Fashion and Creative Art,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;College of Art and Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;The Department of Fine Arts,Hubei Institute of Fine Arts,Wuhan 430205 China)
出处 《服饰导刊》 2023年第1期34-41,共8页 Fashion Guide
基金 2021年教育部首批新文科研究与改革实践项目:“‘多元融通、全域保障’卓越设计人才培养新范式建构与实践”(2021160042)。
关键词 职贡图 图像证史 服饰 比较研究 tribute map image history clothing comparative study
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