间裙的形制变化与设计理念分析

Analysis on structural changes and design concept of jian skirt

间裙是我国历史上特有的裙装,拥有独特的造型和美感,不仅承袭和发展了传统制衣的斜裁方式,还在此基础上融入了丰富的款式和细节变化。以考古的实物服装为依据,参考壁画、像偶等间接形象,结合文献资料,以唐初间裙为重点,通过典型案例和结构对比等方法,分析间裙在款式结构、颜色上的发展情况及其裁剪拼接方式,探索其反映的设计理念和审美意识。间裙是节奏美、对比美、惜物美与功能美的综合体现,反映了中国传统服饰在制作时所奉行的应时应变与节约理念,值得当代人借鉴。

Jian skirt(Interval color patchwork skirt)is a kind of unique skirt with special shape and elegance in China’s history.It not only inherits and develops the traditional oblique cutting method of garment making,but also integrates rich styles and detail changes.Basing on archaeological relics of costumes,indirect images such as frescoes and statues,and documentary materials,this paper focuses on jian skirt in the early tang dynasty,analyzes the development of the skirt in terms of style structure,color and the way of cutting and splicing through typical cases and structural comparisons,and explores its design concept and aesthetic consciousness.The jian skirt is a comprehensive embodiment of the beauty of rhythm,the proper comparison,the virtue of conservation and the appropriate function,which reflects the concept of adjusting to the times and saving in the production of traditional Chinese clothes,and has aesthetic values worthy of studying by contemporary design.