重述一方风土:云南南部市场整合加强背景下的民族生态学与茶农业生态系统管理

Rebranding Terroir:Ethnoecology and Tea Agro-Ecosystem Management in Response to Increased Market Integration in Southern Yunnan,China

随着中国和国际市场对普洱茶需求的不断增加,云南南部农业生态系统的集约化发展导致当地出现了众多形态多样的农业生态系统,包括茶园、混合作物系统,以及单一栽培梯田茶园。普洱茶(Camellia sinensis assamica)通常为林地乔木,而茶(C.sinensis sinensis)则通常在梯田茶园中作为灌木生长。受葡萄酒行业的启发,本文以“风土”(Terroir)概念为框架,分析了形成不同植物学特征的环境和人为因素,从而量化评估种植过程所创造的价值。这种方法可促使人们将茶产品的关注点回归产地源头,而非外在因素,从而解决当地“过度包装”的风土问题。考虑到茶叶种植和营销趋势之间尚存在植物和文化价值方面的差距,本文研究了一种替代方案,该方案能够最大限度地减少茶叶生产和推广模式对环境的影响,同时利用其所带来的经济效益,在社区尺度上推进针对文化复杂性的土地保护工作。通过景观敏感性生态旅游方法保护茶林和减轻贫困的策略适用于云南古代茶山的较多地区,本文选取布朗古普洱茶山的两个试点社区作为实验项目的场所。设计干预措施主要包括两个部分:基于保护目的的民族生态旅游,以及茶林保护计划。本文还对项目实施过程中整体保护或生态旅游承载力方面的诸多不确定性和差异进行了分析。尽管制定了土地利用分区总体规划,但鉴于当地村民常在森林空间中开展特定的社会经济活动,研究还根据其社会活动模式、活动类型和范围,以及参与者的不同情况,构想了一系列未来景观场景,希望当地的经济机会不再受市场需求限制,而由被重新设计的“风土”所驱动。

Prompted by increased domestic and transnational demand for Pu’er tea,an emergence of agroecosystem intensification in Southern Yunnan,China has resulted in various agro-ecosystems includingtea forests,mixed crop systems,and monocultural terrace tea gardens,in the tea production system.Plants of Camellia sinensis assamica often grow as trees in forests whilst C.sinensis sinensis grow as shrubs in terrace tea gardens.Inspired by the wine industry,the concept“Terroir”acts as a framework that analyzes both environmental and human factors yielding varying botanic profiles,and hence quantifies values created by the cultivation process.The approach allows economic opportunities of place-based tea products to be driven by the origin in lieu of extrinsic qualities,which has resulted in to the fabricated reputation of terroir.In response to a common gap in terms of botanical and cultural values between tea cultivation and marketing trends,this article investigates an alternative scenario in which tea production and promotion model could minimize its environmental impacts and utilize its economic weight to advance land conservation efforts specific to cultural complexity at community scales.