马王堆汉墓出土袍服再探

Restudy on the Unearthed Robe from Mawangdui Han Tomb

1972~1974年长沙马王堆汉墓出土了大量完整的纺织服饰文物,为研究西汉初期纺织服饰提供了十分珍贵的实物资料。发掘40余年来不同领域的专家学者们在织绣、印绘、形制、纹样、艺术、文化等方面的研究成绩斐然。本文以出土袍服为研究对象,从观察实物的形制特征、结构工艺比较入手,采用实验考古学方法,最后进行实践复原。研究结果表明:受面料幅宽限制,马王堆汉墓出土的袍服在裁剪时采用正裁、斜裁、多片拼合的方法。制衣者在尽可能节约面料的同时,采用腋下插片或者腰部处理的方式提高服饰穿着舒适性,既能保证服装结构稳定,又能满足服用蔽体功能。

From 1972 to 1974,a large number of complete textile and clothing relics were unearthed from Mawangdui Han tomb in Changsha,which provided precious materials for the study of textile and clothing in the early Western Han Dynasty.Over the past 40 years,experts and scholars from different disciplines have made many achievements in embroidery,printing,shape,pattern,art and culture,etc.With the unearthed robes as the research objects,starting from the observation of the physical shape characteristics,and the structural technology comparison,experimental archaeology method has been used,and finally restoration has been practiced.The research results show that,due to the limitation of fabric width,methods of normal cutting,oblique cutting and multi-piece combination were adopted in the tailoring of the robes unearthed from the Han Dynasty tomb in Mawangdui.While saving fabrics as much as possible,garment makers adopted the way of underarm insert or waist treatment to improve clothing comfort,which can not only ensure the stability of clothing structure,but also meet the function of body covering.