从“服妖”现象探寻当代服饰中时尚与伦理界限

Exploring the Boundaries of Fashion and Ethics in Contemporary Clothing through the Phenomenon of Fu Yao

在国素有“衣冠上国”之称,不仅是因服饰艺术之璀璨,而且是因服饰在我国古代具有深厚的人文内涵。《洪范•五行志》中记载了许多怪异之事,将其称为“妖”,其中将不符合礼制和常俗的服饰行为称为“服妖”。围绕“服妖”的发展进行研究与梳理,结合当时的社会背景总结出三个成因类型,并提出对“服妖”现象研究的意义与价值。针对当代“服妖”现象列举出四个案例,并对其两两比较,提出要把握好服饰行为中个性展示与道德约束的界限。

China has long been known as the"land of clothing and headwear,"not only for the splendour of its clothing art,but also for the profound humanistic meaning of clothing in ancient times.In the book Hongfan Wuxingzhi,many strange and abnormal things are recorded and referred to as"Yao"or demons.Among these things,clothing behaviours that violate ritual and custom are called Fu Yao.This paper explores the development of Fu Yao and summarizes three types of causes based on the social context of the time.It also highlights the significance and value of studying the phenomenon of Fu Yao.In examining contemporary instances of Fu Yao,this paper presents four case studies and compares them in pairs,emphasizing the need to strike a balance between individual self-expression and ethical restraints in clothing behavior.