滋养类护肤品的功效评价方法探讨

Discussion on the Efficacy Evaluation Method of Facial Nourishing Cosmetic

为探讨皮肤滋养类化妆品功效评价的方法,选择23名合格受试者,分别采用皮肤角质层含水量(MMV)、皮肤L~*值、皮肤纹理面积占比值(SE_W)、眼尾弹性(R2值)、皮肤经皮失水值(TEWL)等5个皮肤参数表征使用护肤品前后皮肤光泽度、粗糙度和紧致度等性质的变化,从而对宣称有滋养功效的某化妆品进行功效评估。结果显示,在使用测试样品后,志愿者脸部MMV值和R2值均有显著性差异提高,皮肤SE_(W)值降低但无显著性差异,而皮肤L^(*)值和皮肤TEWL值均没有明显变化,说明测试样品能够明显提高皮肤水分和改善皮肤紧致度,有一定的改善皮肤粗糙度的效果,并且不会显著降低皮肤光泽度和损害皮肤屏障。因此,测试样品具有一定的皮肤滋养效果。

In order to explore the efficacy evaluation method of skin nourishing cosmetics,23 qualified subjects were selected to test and characterize the changes of skin gloss,roughness and firmness before and after the use of skin care products by testing five skin parameters,including the water content of skin stratum corneum(MMV),L^(*)value,skin texture area ratio(SE_(W)),eye tail elasticity(R2)and skin transdermal water loss value(TEWL),So as to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic that claims to have a nourishing effect.The results showed that,after the test samples were used,the MMV value and the R2 value of the skin were significantly increased,and the SEW value was decreased,but there was no significant difference,while the skin L^(*) value and the TEWL value were not significantly changed,indicating that the test samples can significantly improve the skin moisture and skin firmness,have a certain effect of improving the skin roughness,and will not significantly reduce skin gloss and damage skin barrier.Therefore,the test sample had a certain skin nourishing effect.