湖州明代邵南夫妇合葬墓出土丝织品研究

Study on silk fabrics unearthed from Shao Nan couple’s joint burial tomb of the Ming Dynasty in Huzhou

墓葬出土丝织品是研究古代丝绸技艺和社会文化生活的重要证据。浙江湖州在明代中期已是中国丝绸的重点产区,除湖丝甲天下外,生产的丝绸品种也极其丰富。湖州明代邵南夫妇合葬墓出土丝织品,是湖州地区目前出土的保存最完整、最有代表性的明代丝织品实物资料。本文对该墓出土的丝绸服饰及所用面料进行重点考察,从服饰品类、丝织品种、丝绸纹样类别等角度开展了服饰形制研究、面料工艺分析与纹样复原研究,为后续的文物保护与复原提供了重要依据。该墓出土的男女服饰种类齐全,丝织品种基本涵盖明代丝绸的典型品种,丝织品纹样题材广泛、构图巧妙,呈现出敦厚温柔的明代丝绸风貌,出土丝织品反映出明代中后期杭嘉湖地区丝织品的技艺与服用特征,也为研究浙江地区的丝绸技艺与服饰文化提供了宝贵信息。

Silk production in the Ming Dynasty(1368-1644 CE)reached a peak throughout history.Silk fabrics excavated from burials are not only an important part of Ming Dynasty silk research,but also significant evidence in researching the silk techniques and social and civilizational life,which can relatively reflect the use situations and structural details of silk fabrics intuitively at that time.Huzhou is one of the most major silk cities of the Ming Dynasty.Silk fabrics unearthed from the burial of Shao Nan couple are the best preserved and the most representative Ming Dynasty silk material at present in Huzhou,indicating the precious value on researching the silk variety and weaving process during the mid and late Ming Dynasty.Taking the silk fabrics excavated from Shao Nan couple’s tomb as the research object,we make comparisons between the important silks unearthed from this tomb and other Ming tombs in Zhejiang at the same time,combing historical paintings,documents and other multi-dimensional perspectives to draw the following conclusions:(i)from the perspective of costume form,the unearthed silk fabrics include the widely worn ordinary dresses with basically complete elements during the Ming Dynasty,and extremely popular hats at that time.Based on the analysis of the excavated silk costumes,they can be categorized into four class:robes,coats,skirts and pants.According to the features of robe neckline,there are round-collar robes(shirts),cross-collar robes(shirts),stand-collar shirts,and straight-collar robes(shirts).According to the characteristics of collar lapel,coats can be divided into two types:cross-collar ones and stand-up collar ones.Skirts are all typical pleated skirts of the Ming Dynasty.Pants include trousers and knee pants.(ii)From the characteristic of silk variety,the unearthed silk fabrics consist of plain fabrics and patterned fabrics,of which plain fabrics are woven by basic weaves,mostly plain weave,followed by satin weave and crossing warp weave,as well as a small amount of twill weave.Figured fabrics are mostly fabrics decorated with veiled patterns,followed by satin-flower twill,and a small amount of gold-brocaded satin and solid ground gauze.In addition,there are also stitched-in embroidery and needle-looping embroidery,which are typical and representative embroidery with distinctive features of the Ming Dynasty.(iii)From the aspect of silk patterns,they are rich in diverse themes,and include not only folk patterns such as flowers,animals and geometrics,with flower patterns accounting for the largest proportion,but also badge patterns symbolizing ranks and statues of the wearers.These silk fabrics represent the prosperity of the silk industry and the exquisiteness of silk weaving techniques in Huzhou area during the Ming Dynasty.In addition to investigating emphatically and analyzing systematically with art and techniques of the silk fabrics unearthed from the burial of Shao Nan couple,we also apply variety classification,pattern restoration and process analysis to the research of the silk category,pattern and costume form of the excavated silk fabrics,providing accurate and reliable information for subsequent restoration and conservation of cultural relics.