晚清满族女子扁方与发式配伍研究

Study on Compatibility of Manchu Women's Bianfang Hairpins and Hair Style in Late Qing Dynasty

扁方是清代满族女子的发簪,多为晚清满族妇女梳旗头时所插戴,兼具功能性与装饰性。本文基于历史文献、图像史料及实物标本,运用多重证据法对晚清满族女子扁方的形制、工艺和纹样进行研究,首次在发式形制研究中引用实物标本CT透视照,对标本内部结构进行深入研究,以此分析扁方与不同发式的搭配规律,发现扁方样式伴随发式的演变由短变长,从繁至简;从早期“两把头”可拆卸、富有装饰性的扁方转变为晚期“大拉翅”内部骨架固定化一体式的结构,并结合清代社会环境与文化风尚,探究其背后的文化意涵,为满族发式与配饰适配规律研究提供参考价值。

The Biangfang(flat rectangle hairpin)is a unique type of hairpins of Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty.It was mostly used by Manchu women in the late Qing Dynasty to comb the hair like a flag,which has both functional and decorative ef⁃fects.Based on historical documents,image historical materials and physical specimens,this paper studies the shape,technolo⁃gy and pattern of Manchu women's Bianfang in the late Qing Dynasty by using multiple evidence method.For the first time,the CT perspective of physical specimens is cited in the study of hairstyle shape,and the internal structure of the specimens is stud⁃ied in depth.In order to analyze the matching rules of Bianfang and different hairstyles,it is found that the Biangfang style is ac⁃companied by the evolution of hairstyles from short to long,from complex to simple;from the early'two heads'detachable and decorative to the late'big wings'internal skeleton immobilized integrated structure.Combined with the social environment and cultural fashion of the Qing dynasty,the cultural connotation behind it is explored to provide reference value for the study of the adaptation patterns of Manchu hair style and accessories.