十八世纪英国“情人眼”首饰研究

Research on"Lover's Eye"Jewelry in the 18th Century United Kingdom

“情人眼”首饰是一种集绘画、珠宝、肖像、符号于一身的艺术品,曾在十八世纪至十九世纪初的英国广泛流行。虽然此类首饰存在时间短暂,却在首饰史上发挥着重要作用。本文以“情人眼”首饰为研究对象,从“情人眼”首饰的起源与发展、材料特点、工艺特点以及文化价值四方面进行了研究。“情人眼”首饰源于法国,流行于十八世纪英国经济、科技快速发展阶段。首饰绘画部分的材料多以象牙为主,镶嵌框部分的材料多包括金属、各类宝石以及头发等纪念物。制作工艺大致包括象牙切片、处理象牙、彩绘和镶嵌。“情人眼”首饰从符号与构成的角度创造了独特的视觉价值。“情人眼”首饰的内容上融入了艺术家的情感与个人经验,通过“凝视”传递情感价值。“情人眼”首饰独特设计思维呈现出特殊的作品与观众交流的方式,为当代首饰设计提供借鉴。

"Lover's eye"jewelry is a kind of art that combines painting,jewelry,portraits and symbols.It was widely popular in Britain from the 18th century to the early 19th century.Although this kind of jewelry existed for a short time,it played an important role in the history of jewelry.This paper takes the"lover's eye"jewelry as the research object,and studies the"lover's eye"jewelry from four aspects:formation background,material characteristics,process characteristics and cultural value."Lover's eye"jewelry originated in France and was popular in the 18th century when British economy and technology developed rapidly.The materials of the painting part are mainly ivory,and the materials of the inlaid frame part mainly include metal,all kinds of gemstones,hair and other mementos.The production process generally includes ivory slicing,ivory processing,color painting and inlaying."Lover's eye"jewelry creates special visual value from the perspective of symbol and composition.The content of the"lover's eye"eye jewelry integrates the artist's emotion and personal experience,and conveys emotional value through"gazing".The unique design thinking of the"lover's"eye jewelry shows a special way of communication between works and audience,which provides reference for contemporary jewelry design.