摘要
本文将蒸馏工艺与超声冷提工艺结合,提取金钗石斛花、金莲花与金盏花三种花的活性成分,得到无色至淡黄色纯露,pH值为5~6呈弱酸性。三者的复配提取物对DPPH自由基的半抑制浓度IC50值为0.012g/mL,最大清除率达到96%;组分协同增效减少黑色素作用明显,受试者使用28天后ITA°值增加。该复配提取物有较好的抗氧化性、减少黑色素含量、提亮肤色功效的同时并未显示出刺激性。此方法提取工艺简单,保留了名贵花卉(金钗石斛花)活性成分和颜色,为不同感观效果的化妆品提供了无色素型原料,同时避免引入过多杂质,降低了化妆品的安全风险。
In this paper,active ingredients of Dendrobium nobile,nasturtium and marigold flowers were extracted to obtain a colorless to light yellow pure dew through the combination of distillation process and ultrasonic cold extraction process.The compound extract was weakly acidic with a pH value of 5-6.Its IC50 value on DPPH free radicals was 0.012 g/mL,and the maximum clearance rate reached 96%.The synergistic effect of different active components on reducing melanin was obvious,and the ITA°value increased with 28 d of use.The compound extract has good antioxidant properties,reduces the melanin content and brightens the skin without showing irritating effects.The extraction process is simple,and the active ingredients and colors of precious flowers(Dendrobium nobile)are preserved,providing non-pigmented materials for cosmetics with different sensory effects,while avoiding the introduction of excessive impurities and reducing the safety risk of cosmetics.
作者
张大勇
刘芸芸
陈江
ZHANG Dayong;LIU Yunyun;CHEN Jiang(Zhejiang Yige Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310000,Zhejiang,China;Zhong Ke Hua Qi(Beijing)Institute of Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100089,China)
出处
《香料香精化妆品》
CAS
2023年第2期103-106,共4页
Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics
关键词
金钗石斛花
金盏花
金莲花
护肤
抗氧化
Dendrobium nobile flower
nasturtium flower
marigold flower
skin care effect
antioxidant