唐山近海海域波浪要素特征分析

Analysis of Wave Element Characteristics in Tangshan Offshore Area

本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据,对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析,并利用origin软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明:1#、2#浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE,常浪向有效波高均以0.2-0.4 m小浪及3~4 s短周期为主,有效波高1 m以上较大波浪极少出现;该海域波浪以风浪为主,波浪破碎速度较快,有效波高与风速相关性较强,相关系数r为0.71,风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性,该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。

Based on the real-time wave observation data of buoys 1#and 2#in the coastal area of Tangshan from April to November 2017 and some wind speed and wind direction data,this paper makes statistical analysis on the wave parameter characteristics such as effective wave height,effective wave direction and effective wave period in the coastal area of Tangshan,and studies the correlation between wave parameters and wind speed and wind direction by using Origin software.The results show that the normal wave directions of buoys 1#and 2#are SSW,SW and SSE.The effective wave height in the nonnal wave direction is dominated by small waves of 0.2-0.4 m and short periods of 3-4 s,and large waves with effective wave height above lm rarely occur;The waves in the sea area are mainly wind waves.The wave breaking speed is fast.The effective wave height has strong correlation with the wind speed,and the correlation coefficient r is 0.71.The wind direction has no correlation with the wave direction,and the effective wave height has no correlation with the period.The research data can provide technical basis for marine activities and disaster prevention and reduction.