东坡巾源流:古代士人对帽的接受与改造

The Filiation of the“Dongpo Hat”:The Acceptance and Transformationof Hats by the Ancient Literati

帽在中国的历史非常悠久,最早为北方少数民族所喜戴。至迟于先秦,“高顶帽”为中原百姓接受。但在汉及以前的服饰体系中,中原地区主流语境崇冠轻帽,视“高顶帽”为胡人之象征。历经魏晋风度和南北朝民族大融合的洗礼后,士人们反而开始以戴帽为雅,“高顶帽”始被士人广泛设计和改造,汉化特征显著,流行于社会各阶层。其中一款“墙外有重墙”“界在两眉间”的造型成为后来“东坡巾”的原生要素。唐及五代,“高顶帽”演化为周边带檐、中有竖棱、乌纱材质、多为平顶、意趣浓烈的纱帽,帽之文人化随之定型。北宋以降,乌纱帽出现了诸多名目,虽整体造型一致,但方圆高低的细节各有不同,有一种身高檐短、上宽下窄的方帽尤其受到苏轼喜爱。由于苏轼巨大的影响力,这种方帽在宋代和明代分别有了“子瞻样”和“东坡巾”的专名,后又被民间附会为苏轼发明。明清时,“东坡巾”已成为苏轼画像中的程式化符号之一,不仅在中国古代文人群体中影响深远,还传播到了越南、日本、朝鲜等东亚文化圈的国家,产生了很多富有国别特色的变体。“东坡巾”的形成、改造和传播过程彰显中华民族多元一体格局的特殊性和丰富性。

Hat has a long history in China,but was first worn by the northern ethnic minorities.No later than the Pre-Qin period,"High top hat"has been accepted by the people of the Central Plains.However,the mainstream context in the clothing system of Han and before of the Central Plains advocated the guan while despising the hat,treating"high top hat"as the symbol of barbarian.After experiencing the baptism of the Wei-Jin style and the ethnic integration of the Southern and Northern Dynasties,the literati began to wear hats as elegant."High top hat"began to be widely designed and transformed to have significant Chinese characteristics by literati,popular in all social classes.Among them,a sort of hat with upward brim and edge pointing at the eyebrows already has the original elements of the"Dongpo hat".In the Tang and Five Dynasties,"high top hat"evolved black gauze hat with surrounding brim,vertical middle edge,flat top and rich literati interest,the literati transformation of the hat is then finalized.In the Northern Song Dynasty,there were many names of black gauze hats.Although the overall shape was consistent,the details of the outline and height were different,among which a sort of square high hat with short brim and narrow width on the bottom was especially liked by SU Shi.Due to SU Shi's great influence,this square hat had the special name of"Zizhan style"and"Dongpo hat"respectively in the Song and Ming Dynasties,and was said was invented by SU Shi by folk.In the Ming and Qing Dynasties,the"Dongpo hat"had become one of stylized symbols in SU Shi's portraits.It not only had a profound influence among the ancient Chinese literati group,but also spread to the countries in the East Asian cultural circle such as Vietnam,Japan,Korea and so on,producing many variants with rich national characteristics.The formation,transformation and dissemination of"Dongpo hat"highlight the particularity and richness of the pluralistic and integrated pattern of the Chinese nation.