量产的奢侈品:明代宫廷首饰的设计与生产

Luxuries of Mass Production:Design and Production of Court Jewelry in the Ming Dynasty

本文从设计学角度研究明代宫廷首饰的设计与生产问题。明朝皇室庞大,基于礼制的需求,宫廷首饰的设计生产需要兼备批量化、标准化与多样性。因此设计就不能仅考虑样式问题,还要介入生产环节,计划步骤与分工。为解决问题,明代宫廷首饰多采用了“模件化”的设计思维和“分工式”的生产模式,将成品拆解成若干小模件,交由内府不同监局、不同工种进行高效而标准地制作,最后再根据现实需要将模件相互置换、灵活组合,满足多样性要求。

This essay approaches from the design perspective to discuss the problem related to court jewelry design and its production in the Ming Dynasty.To fulfill the colossal demand of the ritual system for the royals,court jewelry design,and production,therefore,had to undergo the process of mass production,standardization,and differentiation.To overcome this difficulty,designers should not only involve in the designing stage but also participate throughout the process of manufacturing which includes planning and division of labor.The solution adopted was the“modular”design pattern and“division”production mode.The finished product is disassembled into several smaller modules,which then being handed over to different production units in charge by the government and held responsible for the efficiency and quality check.Finally,according to the actual needs,the prefabricated component can be replaced and flexibly combined to satisfy the different requirements.