南京云锦图案生态审美特性研究

Study on the ecological aesthetic characteristics of patterns on Nanjing Yunjin brocade

为拓宽南京云锦图案的研究视野,本文从生态美学的研究视角梳理和分析其审美特性,分别对其素材、纹样、口诀、色彩所蕴含的生态美学特征加以分析论证。研究表明,南京云锦图案在素材体系上饱含积极的生态审美整体性特征,在纹样形态上不乏鲜活的生态交融性特征,在纹样口诀上积淀着深厚的“生生律性”特征,在色彩运用上具有鲜明的生态审美自然性特征。以上四方面特性是“活态”传承云锦文化遗产的创新点所在,这一研究成果表明,对云锦图案生态审美元素的研究、保护、传承、应用推广是生态经济时代发展云锦工艺的有益尝试。

Most of the previous studies have analyzed Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern art from the perspective of craft aesthetics.It can be said that fruitful results have been achieved.However,the limitations of this art are inevitable on the horizon of information technology and ecological civilization.Research is conducted from the perspective of ecological aesthetics.It is of important value for broadening the research scope of Nanjing Yunjin brocade cultural heritage and changing the traditional anthropocentric aesthetic research paradigm.With reference to the relevant theories of ecological aesthetics,craft aesthetics,and folk art,the author studied the ecological aesthetics characteristics embodied in the materials,patterns,pithy formulas,and colors of Nanjing Yunjin brocade patterns through reasoning analysis,essence analysis,and systematic analysis.The following conclusions are drawn:(i)the Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern is full of positive integral ecological aesthetics in the material system and its integrity is reflected in the ecological hierarchy and ecological diversity,thus forming the auspicious culture system of the Yunjin brocade material.(ii)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern boasts a vivid ecological blending feature in terms of pattern shape,which is reflected in the morphological diversity of unit flowers,the ecological regularity of the pattern combination,and the comprehensive model expression.(iii)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern enjoys a profound feature of“rules of aesthetics of fecundity of life”in the pithy formulas for pattern design.In the pattern design and weaving practice,the“rules”are of important enlightenment significance for mankind to seek the“technical prototype”with the original breath of life.(iv)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern enjoys distinctive aesthetic and natural characteristics in terms of color name,color material,“active”color matching,and colors’implication.The above four characteristics are the innovative points of the“living”inheritance of Yunjin brocade art.Based on this understanding,the ecological aesthetics elements of Nanjing Yunjin brocade patterns can be promoted from the following four points:(i)the resonating with the theme of the era of ecological civilization can be realized through the inheritance and innovation of the material system.(ii)The“artistic development”and“application-based promotion”of the pattern shape can be deeply blended with the contemporary regenerative decorative culture.(iii)A continuous stream of“rule codes”can be conveyed to the contemporary textile industry and traditional cultural education through the inheritance of the“production-learning-research-education”system for the pithy formulas of design.(iv)China’s ecological culture and weaving culture can be vigorously disseminated through the digital protection of ecological color spectrums,the application and promotion of natural attributes,and the reasonable development of color shading technology.This paper systematically analyzes the ecological aesthetic characteristics of Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern art and applies the latest research results of China’s ecological aesthetics to traditional textile pattern research.The extracted ecological aesthetics characteristics represent the key to the living inheritance of the Yunjin brocade pattern design art.They are of important significance for enhancing the international influence of Nanjing Yunjin brocade,improving their own“living”function,and advancing the exchanges between Chinese and Western civilizations.