摘要
针对目前中国古代纺织文化研究的缺陷问题,文章运用古文献资料调研与文物考古研究两维印证的方法,从性别视角出发,并结合中国古代社会的文化背景,系统地分析中国古代著名纺织人物群体所蕴含的纺织信息,进而阐述该人物群体的文化特征。研究认为:首先,女性纺织人物可分为教育说教型、精神象征型和技艺高超型三种类型,由于中国古代封建社会男耕女织的性别分工决定了女性纺织人物要多于男性。其次,男性纺织人物划分为机械创造型、纹样创新型和技术创新型三种类型,而男性的社会地位则决定了男性纺织人物的创新性与技术性高于女性。最后,中国古代纺织文化历史悠久,长久以来纺织被认为是女性的领域,她们利用空闲时间完成纺织,并支撑着传统社会生活的各个方面,中国封建社会的经济发展与繁荣也离不开无数辛勤耕耘在纺织领域的女性。
Chinese textile culture has a long history,and there are many research results.Since Leizu,the Goddess of Silkworm,many famous textile figures have emerged in the history of ancient Chinese textile,and the themes are also very rich.The development of ancient Chinese textiles also includes the hard work of countless textile figures.Therefore,combing and analyzing the cultural characteristics contained in the famous textile figures in ancient China will help people to further understand the development of ancient Chinese textile industry.This paper systematically and deeply collates and analyzes the cultural characteristics of famous textile figures in ancient China,which not only can be used to see the development of ancient Chinese textile industry,but also has very important value for the study of ancient Chinese textile technology and textile culture.At the same time,the division of labor between men and women has always existed in human society.For a long time,spinning and weaving has been regarded as the field of women.They use their free time to complete textiles and support all aspects of the traditional social life.Through the study of ancient Chinese textile figure groups,we hope to draw attention to contemporary social division of labor and female labor.We used the method of combining ancient literature research and cultural relics archaeological research,selected a certain number of textile figures,combined the cultural background of ancient Chinese society from the perspective of gender,and drew four conclusions.(i)Due to the gender division of labor between men and women in ancient Chinese feudal society,the number of female textile figures was more than that of male ones,and the image of female textile figures were rich,being mainly divided into the educational preaching type,the spiritual symbol type and the highly skilled type.(ii)The male textile figure group was mainly divided into the mechanical creation type,the pattern innovation type and the technological innovation type,and the male group image type was biased towards practical creation and innovation types.This phenomenon became increasingly obvious in modern China,and the development and transformation of modern textile industry was almost dominated by men.(iii)Women participated in textile earlier than men,but the textile industry was mostly family-centered,being lack of innovation.Besides,such work was alway regarded as secondary labor.In Chinese feudal society,some people even equated spinning and weaving with women’s occupation,and the feudal society raised women’s participation in spinning and weaving to the moral level,so spinning and weaving also showed the daily life of women in Chinese feudal society.(iv)From the perspective of gender,the development of men and women in the textile field was different.The textile industry made women’s role no longer limited to traditional family life,but more diversified with society,family and self.Although men’s participation in textile was later than that of women,the establishment of patriarchal rule in ancient feudal society and the promotion of men’s cultivation and women’s weaving made men’s textile activities more technical and innovative than women’s.
作者
李艳芳
刘安定
LI Yanfang;LIU Anding(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;The Research Center ofIntangible Cultural Heritage of Hubei Province,Wuhan 430073,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第5期152-159,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。
关键词
中国古代纺织人物
文化特征
纺织女性
纺织男性
性别分工
男耕女织
Chinese ancient textile figures
cultural characteristics
weaving women
weaving men
gender division of labor
men tilling the farm and women weaving