基于角度法的喇叭裙裙片腰口曲线结构设计

Structure design of flared skirt piece waist curve based on angle method

喇叭裙腰口曲线的曲度直接影响裙子造型,而常用于设计喇叭裙腰口曲线的垂直等分法、圆规绘制法、比例计算法和经验定数法等直接绘制方法存在操作复杂和精度不够等问题。为精确快捷地绘制喇叭裙裙片腰口曲线,从平面几何方面分析裙片结构框架线的相互关系,得出裙子规格尺寸和裙片侧缝劈势是影响裙片腰口曲度的主要因素;以影响因素为参数,计算起翘角度,控制裙片腰口曲线起翘量;用角平分线迭代的方法绘制裙片腰口曲线。利用精纺毛织物虚拟缝制,经过3D试穿验证本文方法是合理可行的。文章为服装制版软件中曲线的绘制提供了建模思路。

The curvature of flared skirt waist curve directly affects skirt shape,however,there are some problems such as complicated operation and insufficient precision in the vertical division method,compass method,proportion method and empirical method.To draw the waist curve of skirt piece accurately and quickly,based on the analysis of the relationship between the frame lines of the skirt slice structure from plane geometry,the size of the skirt and the splitting force of the skirt side seam are the main factors affecting the curvature of the skirt waist was drawn.Take the influencing factors as the parameter,the warping angle was calculated,the warping curve of the skirt piece waist was controlled,skirt piece waist curve was drawn by the method of angular bisector iteration.Virtual sewing of worsted wool fabric was used to verify the feasibility of the proposed method through 3D fitting.This paper provides modeling ideas for curve drawing in garment plate-making software.