摘要
采用水煮法提取栾树叶染液,以明矾和皂矾为媒染剂,采用直接染、预媒染和后媒染3种方法对纯棉针织物进行染色,获得枯黄色、浅棕灰色和暗灰色3种色调。选择明矾预媒染和皂矾预媒染的方法进行单因子染色试验。试验结果表明,明矾预媒染和皂矾预媒染的优化提取料液比均为1∶10。明矾预媒染的优化染色工艺为:pH值7、时间30 min、温度70℃。皂矾预媒染的优化染色工艺为:pH值6、时间30 min、温度40℃。明矾预媒染和皂矾预媒染后织物的耐洗涤、耐摩擦和耐日晒色牢度均达到3~4级或以上,其中耐日晒色牢度尤为突出,分别为4~5级和5级。
Extracting solution of koelreuteria paniculate leaves is obtained by boiling method.Using alum and melanterite as mordant,cotton knitted fabric is dyed by direct,pre-mordant and post-mordant dyeing process,and accordingly three colors of dry yellow,light brown gray and dark gray are obtained.Single factor dyeing experiments are carried out with dyeing methods of alum pre-mordant dyeing and melanterite pre-mordant dyeing.The results show that the optimum material-liquid ratio in alum pre-mordant and melanterite pre-mordant dyeing is 1∶10;The optimum dyeing process of alum pre-mordant dyeing is:dyeing at 70℃for 30 min with pH 7;The optimum dyeing process of melanterite pre-mordant dyeing is:dyeing at 40℃for 30 min with pH 6.The color fastness to washing,rubbing and sunlight of the fabric dyed with alum pre-mordant and melanterite pre-mordant can reach 3~4 levels or above,with particularly outstanding color fastness to sunlight,reaching 4~5 levels and 5 levels,respectively.
作者
葛敬玮
胡双雪
赵永军
申凯旋
祖倚丹
GE Jingwei;HU Shuangxue;ZHAO Yongjun;SHEN Kaixuan;ZU Yidan(College of Textiles and Garment,Hebei University of Science and Technology,Shijiazhuang 050018,Hebei,China;College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Warp Company Limited,Shijiazhuang Changshan Textile Group,Shijiazhuang 050035,Hebei,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2023年第5期31-34,共4页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
校级研究生创新基金项目(XJCXZZSS2022018)。
关键词
针织物
棉织物
染色工艺
栾树叶
色牢度
knitgoods
cotton fabric
dyeing process
koelreuteria paniculata leaf
color fastness