基于反向对拉垫纱工艺的双贾卡提花间隔鞋材开发

Development of double jacquard spaced vamp fabric based on reverse pull cushion technology

为丰富双贾卡提花间隔鞋材的外观与组织结构设计,提升鞋材的轻薄透气性能,借鉴经编无缝内衣“无底网”成形技术,提出一种利用贾卡梳反向对拉垫纱的原理实施提花间隔鞋材的开发思路。阐述了反向对拉垫纱的工艺原理、鞋材织物的设计步骤和后整理工艺;结合产品开发实例介绍了原料选择、组织设计、花型结构设计、工艺参数、上机织造等各关键工艺。试验结果表明,基于反向对拉垫纱技术的双贾卡提花间隔鞋材轻盈细腻,透气、透湿性良好,外观新颖时尚,可作为休闲运动鞋面的优选材料,同时为经编双贾卡鞋面材料的开发提供参考。

In order to enrich the appearance and structure design of double jacquard spaced vamp fabric,and improve the light,thin and breathable performance of shoes,drawing lessons from the forming technology of“seamless fabric”of warp knitted seamless underwear,an idea of developing jacquard spaced vamp fabric by using the principle of Jacquard comb reverse pull cushion yarn is proposed.The process principle of reverse drawing cushion yarn,the design steps and post-finishing of vamp fabric are expounded,and the key processes such as raw material selection,tissue design,pattern structure design,process parameters and weaving samples are designed with an example of product development.The results of research and weaving samples show that the double jacquard spaced vamp fabric based on reverse pull cushion technology have the advantages of light and delicate material,good air permeability and moisture permeability,novel and fashionable appearance,and can be used as the preferred material for leisure sports upper.At the same time,it provides design reference for the development of warp knitted double jacquard upper materials.