“邦典”色彩应用研究及现代实践

Study on color implementation of Tibetan Pangden and modern practice

邦典是藏族妇女围裙,作为藏族女装最具代表性的服饰之一,是藏族服饰文化中的关键组成部分,蕴含着深厚的民族信仰和伦理等意识形态色彩。邦典色彩运用符合藏族人民依存自然、热情奔放、纯真善良的性格特征,在现实生活中表达了藏族人民渴望美好生活的信念。文章从色彩符号学和色彩的几何律动角度,对邦典的色彩应用进行了研究。在总结邦典色彩应用规律及其美学特征的视觉呈现方式的基础上,尝试运用孟赛尔色彩系统及其表达原理和等差数列算法形成的几何构成两种手段,对邦典色彩应用进行了创新设计,得到了既具藏族文化特色又符合现代审美的新型邦典。文章期望在传承和发展邦典色彩应用的基础上为邦典色彩应用提供更多的可能性和便利性。

Pangden is Tibetan women’s apron.As one of the most representative costumes of Tibetan women,it is a key component of Tibetan dress culture,containing profound national beliefs and ethics and other ideological characteristics.The use of the colors of the Pangden is in line with Tibetan people’s character traits of being nature-dependent,enthusiastic,pure and kind-hearted,indicating Tibetan people’s desire for a better life.From the perspectives of color symbols and geometric rhythm of colors,we studied on the color application of Pangden.On the basis of summing up the application rules and the visual presentation of the aesthetic characteristics of Pangden’s color using,we tried to use Munsell’s color system and geometric composition formed by arithmetic progression to make innovations for Pangden’s color design.At the last,we proposed two new methods for Pangden’s color design,which not only has the characteristics of Tibetan culture but also meets the modern aesthetic needs.It is expected that the study will provide more possibilities and convenience for Pangden’s modern design based on inheriting and developing the traditional culture of Tibetan costumes.In Pangden,color and geometry are integrated with each other and become a whole.Pangden’s color using presents the aesthetic feeling of mathematical logic and geometric rhythm according to certain composition and arrangement laws through color bars,color block units and color plates.The rules of color using strengthens the construction composition of the Pangden,captures people’s vision,and spreads the sense of order and rhythm.To deeply analyze and explore the law of the combination of color and geometric structure of Pangden,we studied the color application of Pangden from the two perspectives of color’s semiotics and geometric rhythm,and scientifically and objectively analyzed the symbolic representation of color and the aesthetic of geometric rhythm in Pangden.As a symbol of Tibetan people’s dependence on nature and the idea of free life,the colors of Pangden also fully meet the requirements of the three elements of color application in common sense,namely,a variety of colors selection,high brightness and saturation,and sharp contrast but harmony.In the color application of Pangden,rectangular regular color bars are used as the basic unit.The color bars of the same length and different widths form the color block units,which form color chips by tiling and circulating,and the color chips are staggered and spliced repeatedly to form Pangden.With the basic support of color bars,color block units and color chips,Pangden’s colors fluctuate in intensity and rhythm,creating the formal beatuty of being concise but not simple,rich but not messy and a lively and pleasing visual effect.We used the theory of Munsell color system and its expression principle,and geometric composition formed by arithmetic progression,to make innovations for Pangden’s color design and applicat.In the method of Munsell color system,we used synchronous shift of color’s hues to fill the color bars,block units,and thus developing the chips.In the method of arithmetic sequence procession,we tried to change the width of color bar with incremental procession in a fixed block unit to create a different view of combination of color,texture and rhythm inner Pangden.The research and corresponding experiments have obtained a significant result and proved reasonable.The new Pangden’s color design and application not only have the characteristics of Tibetan culture but also conform to the modern aesthetic ideas.The research facilitates the combination of Pangden’s color deign with colors in trend and modern visual art.It is expected to provide more possibilities and flexibilities for Pangden’s color design and application in modern times.The method for design is changing and improving with times going,and we will do further research to follow the fashion trend.It is meaningful and important to inherit and develop traditional dress culture with modern techniques and materials available.However,the outstanding prerequisite for inheriting traditional culture is to keep and maintain the core of the tradition.At the last,the article is expected to play a certain instructive role in studying the art characteristics and using rules of other ethnic groups’costume colors.