标准解读:濮绸织造工艺标准化解析

Standard interpretation: Standardized analysis of Pu silk weaving process

濮绸是浙江桐乡濮院出产的传统丝绸产品,是中国历史上著名的丝绸品种之一,濮绸织造工艺被列入第三批浙江省非物质文化遗产名录,2022年3月《濮绸》“浙纺标”团体标准发布,为浙江省首个非遗项目类团体标准。文章从编制背景、编制原则和依据、标准的主要内容及指标3个方面对《濮绸》标准进行解读,说明了标准中断裂强力、撕破强力和纰裂程度3个关键项目设置的考虑和依据,以期帮助丝绸行业工作者更好地了解、应用标准,为其他非遗项目的“标准化”保护和传承提供参考。

Pu silk is a traditional silk product produced by Puyuan,Tongxiang,Zhejiang province,and it is one of the famous silk varieties in the history of China.The weaving technology of Pu silk was included in the third batch of Intangible Cultural Heritage List of Zhejiang Province.In March 2022,the group standard of“Zhejiang Textile Standard”for Pu silk was released,which is the first group standard of intangible cultural heritage projects in Zhejiang province.We interpret the standard of Pu silk from three aspects:compilation background,compilation principles and basis,main contents and indicators,and explain the considerations and basis of setting three key items in the standard,namely,breaking strength,tearing strength and cracking degree,so as to help silk workers better understand and apply the standard and provide reference for the“standardized”protection and inheritance of other intangible cultural heritage items.