柞蚕丝绸的京尼平和甲基龙胆苦苷苷元复配染色

Compound dyeing of tussah silk with genipin and methyl gentiopicroside aglycone

为探究京尼平和甲基龙胆苦苷苷元对柞蚕丝绸的染色性能,利用紫外-可见分光光度法(UV-vis)分析了单一色素染色、复配色素一浴一步法和一浴二步法的染色过程,测试了染色柞蚕丝绸的色牢度,并初步探讨了复配色素的染色机理。结果表明:与单一色素染色相比,复配色素染色柞蚕丝绸效果更好,色谱范围得到扩展。一浴二步法染色效果与三元色配色规律一致;一浴一步法染色效果不符合三元色配色规律。复配色素染色织物的色牢度可达4级以上。染色机理为京尼平和甲基龙胆苦苷苷元与柞蚕丝绸上的伯氨基反应时,形成的色素中间体可以在同种或者异种环烯醚萜骨架之间发生偶联反应,生成新的多聚体色素,六元环(或五元环)上的取代基起助色基团的作用。

To explore the compound dyeing properties of genipin and methyl gentiopicroside on tussah silk,the processes of single pigment dyeing,one-bath-one-step dyeing and one-bath-two-step dyeing with com⁃posite pigments are analyzed using UV-vis spectrophotometry.The color fastness of dyed tussah silk is tested and the dyeing mechanism of composite pigments is discussed.The results show that the dyeing effect of composite pigments on tussah silk is better than that with the single pigment,and the chromatographic range is expanded.The dyeing effect of the one-bath-two-step method is consistent with the ternary color match⁃ing rules,while the dyeing effect of the one-bath-one-step method does not comply with the rules.The col⁃or fastness of fabrics dyed with composite pigments can reach Grade 4 or above.The dyeing mechanism is that when genipin and methyl gentiopicrin aglycone react with the primary amino group on tussah silk,the pigment intermediate formed can undergo coupling reaction between the same or different idoids to generate new polymer pigments,and the substituent on the six membered ring(or five membered ring)acts as color promoter.