宋诗中野味饮食文化研究

Game food culture in Song poetry

《全宋诗》中有大量关于野味肴馔的诗歌。野味在宋代诗人笔下乃是其仕宦生活的曲折反映,酬唱赠答的往来媒介,思乡怀人的情感寄托,体现人生旨趣的有效载体。宋代诗人注重野味食材的选择、饮食意趣的追求、饮食环境的设计,诗中的宴乐歌舞、龙涎之香、花竹之境、纤手之柔均是诗人饮食美学的呈现,但诗人并不着力于野味饮食的描写和渲染,而是以己度物,以同理心感悟动物之苦;以食悟理,深知厚味有腊毒、美恶亦相依之理。他们以食养德,食用假制野味和素食,在饮食中探寻宋明理学所倡导的孔颜之乐。

There are a large number of poems about game dishes in the Complete Collection of Poetry of the Song Dynasty.Game in the poems is the tortuous reflection of official life of the poets themseves,the communication medium of the presentable poems,the emotional sustenance of homesickness and nostalgia,and the effective carrier of embodying the purpose of life.The Song people pay attention to the selection of game ingredients,the interest and charm of food,and the design of food environment.The feast music and dance,the fragrance of ambergris,the landscape of flowers and bamboo,and the softness of the hands are all the representation of the poets’diet aesthetics,however,they do not focus on the description and exaggeration of the game diet but judge others by themselves and feel the pain of animals with empathy.They use food to comprehend the truth,and know that the thick taste is extremely toxic,and beauty and evil also depend on each other.They cultivate morality by food,eat fake game and vegetarian food,and explore the happiness of Confucius and Yan Hui advocated by Song and Ming Neo-Confucianism in their diet.