基于不同测量指标的中日法女上装原型

Female Upper Sloper Made by Three Patternmaking Methods on Different Measurement Index

为了更好地辨析测量指标对服装结构的影响,探究不同类型上装原型的结构差异,选取中国、日本、法国具有代表性的原型系统进行比对。通过女式上装原型制作的指标参数、结构特点和绘制方式等,分析原型差异性。结果表明,在胸围与净胸围相同的情况下,东华原型、日本新文化原型、法国AICP原型在省的分布、胸高点位置、肩斜度、袖窿等方面具有差异,其中东华原型与日本新文化原型普适性较强,法国AICP原型以繁化简,便捷性较高。

To better distinguish the influence of the measurement indicators on the clothing structure,and explore the structural diversity types of the upper sloper,representative block systems in China,Japan,and France were selected to contrast.By the indicators parameters,structural characteristics,and drawing methods of the block,it analysed the diversity between them.The results show that Donghua block,Japan block and French block are different in dart distribution,chest high position,shoulder slope,sleeve hole,etc,in the case of the same chest circumference and circumference ease.Donghua and Japan blocks have strong universality,and French block is simplified and convenient.