艾德莱斯的结构生成及美学价值

The Structure and Aesthetic Value of Atlas Brocade

艾德莱斯作为中国新疆特有的传统织锦,轻盈飘逸,色彩分明,在文化符号与意象的完美结合中、传统与现代的时空交汇中、生活与艺术的和谐统一中,体现了人民的智慧和对美好生活的热爱,反映了我国各民族交往交流交融的历史。艾德莱斯的美既是其内在结构生成上的道法自然和开拓创新,又是美学价值的时代闪耀,是中华民族的艺术瑰宝。随着科技进步,为更好地传承与发展艾德莱斯,突破桑蚕丝材质的局限,需要原料的创新。文本基于实践探索,发现生物基新材料PA56性能优良,是更加契合绿色、环保、可持续发展理念的新型纺织原料,用其织造的艾德莱斯不逊于以桑蚕丝为原料的艾德莱斯,为艾德莱斯的发展拓宽了新的材料来源。制作材料的多元、印染技术的创新与发展、文化底蕴的深厚以及工艺技术的改进,进一步增添了艾德莱斯的视觉美感,使其更具艺术价值,彰显了中华优秀传统文化的强大生命力和感染力。

As a traditional unique brocade in Xinjiang,the Atlas is airy and colorful,reflecting people’s wisdom and their love for a better life, as well as the history of interaction and communication between different ethnic groups of China, and the harmonious unity of life and art. The beauty of Atlas lies in its inner structure which combines the natural elements with artistic innovation,making it a treasured silk product of China. With the advancement of science and technology, however, innovation of raw materials is needed to better development and design of the Atlas brocade, that is,to overcomes the limit of depending on silk as the only raw material. Based on our exploration, we find that PA56 is a new textile material more in line with the concept of green,environmental protection and sustainable development, and that it will be as good as pure silk when used to weave the Atlas brocade.This new discovery of raw materials for Atlas, plus the innovation of printing and dyeing technology,will add to the visual beauty of the Atlas brocade as well as its artistic value,enhancing the appeal and vitality of the excellent Chinese traditional culture.