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基于混合水平正交试验的束裤设计参数优化

Optimization of Girdle Design Parameters Based on Mixed Level Orthogonal Test
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摘要 塑身内衣是通过包覆压力来对人体进行塑形,束裤的内部结构和面料组合同时影响着服装压力舒适性和塑形功能。文中通过混合水平正交试验对束裤进行内部细节设计参数优化。数据分析表明:对臀凸点高度和臀厚、臀宽影响最大的是提臀带的形状,对腹厚、臀厚影响最大的为臀围处松量;提臀带形状分割线应设置于臀围线与大腿根围线之间2/3处,里料一般要选择弹性模量较大的面料,将臀围的松量大部分设置于臀凸点处。研究结果可为束裤结构设计和面料选择提供依据,并且可以拓展应用到其他提臀紧身裤装。 The shape-wear is used to shape the human body through wrapping pressure.The internal structure design and fabric combination of girdle affect both the pressure comfort and the shaping function of clothing.In this paper,the mixed level orthogonal test was used to optimize the internal detailed design parameters of the girdle.The data analysis shows that the shape of the hip lifting belt has the greatest impact on the hip bump height change and hip thickness/hip width change,and the ease at the hip circumference has the greatest impact on the abdominal thickness/hip thickness change.The shape of hip lifting belt shall be set at 2/3 between hip line and max thigh circumference line.The lining generally needs to select the fabric with large elastic modulus,and most of the ease of hip circumference shall be set at the hip convex point area.This study provides a basis for the structure design and fabric selection of shaping pants,which can be used to other hip lifting tight pants.
作者 姚晓凤 王建萍 沈德垚 徐朝晖 Yao Xiaofeng;Wang Jianping;Shen Deyao;Xu Zhaohui(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design&Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai Institute of Design&Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China;Shanghai Belt and Road Joint Laboratory of Textile Intelligent Manufacturing,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shenzhen Elegance Underwear Co.,Ltd.,Shenzhen,Guangdong 518000,China)
出处 《针织工业》 北大核心 2023年第5期61-65,共5页 Knitting Industries
基金 中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金(2232021G-08) 上海市浦江人才计划资助(2020PJC001) 上海市科学技术委员会“科技创新行动计划”、“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100) “纺织之光”中国纺织工业联合会职业教育教学改革研究项目(2021BKJGLX123)。
关键词 束裤 女性下体体型 结构优化 面料组合 混合水平正交试验 Girdle Lower Body Part of Female Pattern Optimization Fabric Combination Mixed-level Orthogonal Test
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