宋代馉饳儿新探

A New Probe into Guduoer in the Song Dynasty

馉饳儿是宋代兴起的一种美食,常见于宋人笔记以及以宋代为背景的历史小说。然馉饳儿究属何物,历来学者聚讼不已,有馒头、馄饨、饺子等多种说法。通过分析笔记、小说中的相关史料得知,宋代的馉饳儿则是以面粉为主要原料,有馅或无馅,经油炸制熟而成的一种圆形小点心。此外,馉饳儿是宋代城市商业发展的产物,主要在两宋都市的商业街市,尤其是夜市,以沿街叫卖的方式进行销售。馉饳儿的出现,正是宋代商品经济的发展对饮食文化多样性影响的一个表征。

Guduoer,a kind of food first known in the Song Dynasty,is frequently mentioned in the notes of the people in the Song Dynasty,and in historical novels with the Song Dynasty as the background.However,there is no agreement among scholars as to what it actually is.The answers given include steamed bread,wonton and dumplings,among other things.According to the analysis of the relevant historical materials in the notes and novels,the guduoer in the Song Dynasty was a snack made of flour,round in shape,with or without fillings,and fried till well done.In addition,guduoer was the product of urban commercial development in the Song Dynasty.It was mainly sold in the commercial street markets of big cities in the Song Dynasty,especially in the night markets.The emergence of guduoer is a symbol of the influence of the development of commodity economy on the diversity of food culture in Song Dynasty.