《元世祖出猎图》服饰考

A Study of the Costumes in the Painting Kublai Khan Hunting

学界从不同角度对《元世祖出猎图》进行了卓有成效的研究,取得不少成果,但仍有些问题所论未确,需要进一步讨论。本文通过图、文相佐讨论了该传世画作中与服饰相关的一些问题。首先,对世祖皇帝所穿褡忽的材质提出了与以往完全不同的看法,认为这是一件饰以黑羊羔毛的白绵羊裘,而非银鼠裘;其次,对以往研究重视不够的海青衣、比肩进行了探讨,并对比甲、前圆后方帽和白髯者所戴帽子等无人关注的款式,给出了明确的结论。

The academic community has conducted fruitful research on the painting Kublai Khan Hunting from various perspectives,yielding significant results.However,there are still unresolved issues that require further discussion.This article discusses some costume-related aspects of this renowned artwork through a combination of visual and textual analysis.A new perspective is proposed regarding the material of the emperor's dahu,suggesting that it is a white sheepskin coat adorned with black lamb wool rather than a snow weasel fur coat.Other clothes in the painting which were paid little attention by previous researchers,such as haiqingyi,bijian,hat of round front and square rear,bijia,and the hat worn by the bearded man are also discussed,especially drawing a clear conclusion about the last two for the first time.