论《红楼梦》中的“南味”书写及其成因

A Dream of Red Mansions on the Writing of “Southern Taste” and Its Causes

《红楼梦》中的饮食描写广泛且讲究,蕴含厚重的文化意味。曹雪芹“生于繁华,终于沦落”,幼年和少年时期一直生活在“钟鸣鼎食”的曹府,晚年则是穷困落魄,沦落至“举家食粥酒常赊”的境地。曹雪芹虽少时享受过精细饮食,但由于时间跨度之大致使其在创作《红楼梦》时已很难存留少时对于饮食的具体印象,因此小说中丰富且细微的饮食描写应是有所借鉴。因此,从饮食描写好“南味”的倾向入手,分析曹家渊源、明清时期饮食典籍及曹雪芹个人这三个层面,探究《红楼梦》中出现众多饮食描写的原因,具有一定的研究意义。

The description of food in A Dream of Red Mansions is extensive and exquisite,which contains a heavy cultural connotation.CAO Xueqin was“born in the prosperous city,and finally fallen”.In his childhood and adolescence,he had been living in the CAO Mansion,a noble family.In his later years,he was destitute and fell into the situation of“the whole family ate porridge and wine on credit”.It was worth noting that even though he enjoyed fine diet when he was young,the time span was so large that it was impossible for him to retain his specific memories of diet when he was creating A Dream of Red Mansions.Therefore,the rich and subtle dietary descriptions in the book must have drawn inspiration from elsewhere.In this regards,starting with the inclination of the food descriptions in“Dream of the Red Chamber”towards“southern flavor,”this paper analyzes the Cao family's background,dietary classics from the Ming and Qing dynasties,and CAO Xueqin's own diet and health thoughts to explore the reasons behind the abundant food descriptions in“Dream of the Red Chamber.”